Herr von Lille, however, always received me with politeness when I called on him for the purpose of having my passport prepared.  The governor did not treat me with a like consideration; first he put me off from one day to another, then it pleased the mighty man to pass two days in the country.  When he came back, it was a Sunday; on which day such a great work could not possibly be done, and so I did not obtain my passport until the sixth day.

Thus it fared with me, who was provided with letters to the chief officers,—­how do poor people come off?  I heard, indeed, that they are often kept waiting two or three weeks.

The viceroy, Prince Woronzou, was unfortunately not in Tiflis at the time.  I regretted his absence the more, as I everywhere heard him represented as an educated, just, and extremely amiable man.

Far pleasanter than these visits to the Russian governor was that to the Persian Prince Behmen Mirza, to whom I brought letters and intelligence from his family, who were remaining in Tebris.  Although he was ill at the time, nevertheless he received me.  I was conducted into a large saloon, a complete hospital for eight sick persons:  the prince, four of his children, and three wives, laid there upon rugs and cushions.  They all suffered from fever.  The prince was a remarkably handsome and powerful man of five and thirty; his full eyes were expressive of intelligence and goodness.  He spoke with great regret of his fatherland; a smile of painful delight played round his features when I mentioned his children, {312} and related how safely and well I had travelled through those provinces which, but a short time before, had been under his control.  What a happiness would it be for Persia if such a man as this was to come to the throne instead of the young viceroy.

The most interesting, and, at the same time, useful acquaintance which I made was that of Herr Salzmann, a German.  This gentleman possesses considerable knowledge of agriculture, and more than all, a singularly good heart; he interests himself for all kinds of people, and more especially his own countrymen.  Wherever I mentioned his name, people spoke of him with true respect.  He had just received a decoration from the Russian government, although he was not in their service.

Herr Salzmann has built a very handsome house, with every possible convenience for the reception of travellers; besides this he owns a large fruit-garden, ten wersti distant from the town, in the neighbourhood of which are some naphtha springs.  When he found that I wished to see these he immediately invited me to join a party to visit them.  The springs are situated very near to the Kurry.  Square pits, about twenty-five fathoms deep, are dug, and the naphtha is dipped out by means of wooden buckets.  This naphtha, however, is of the commonest kind, of a dark brown colour, and thicker than oil.  Asphalte, cart-grease, etc., are made from it.  The fine white naphtha, which can be used for lighting and fuel, is peculiar to the Caspian Sea.