The river Aras flows close to the headland.  It separates Armenia from Media, has a terrible fall, and high waves.  It here forms the boundary between the Russian and Persian dominions.  We crossed in a boat.  On the opposite side of the river were several small houses where travellers are obliged to stop and prove that they are not robbers, and especially that they are not politically dangerous.  Occasionally they are detained in quarantine for some time, when the plague or cholera happens to be prevalent in Persia.

A letter from the Russian consul at Tebris ensured me a very courteous reception; from the quarantine I was saved, as there was no plague or cholera.  I had, however, scarcely set my foot upon Russian ground, when the impudent begging for drink-money began.  The officer had among his people a Cossack, who represented himself as understanding German, and he was sent to me to ask what I wished for.  The rogue knew about as much German as I did Chinese—­hardly three or four words.  I therefore signified to him that I did not require his services, in spite of which he held out his hand, begging for money.

13th August.  I left Arax betimes in the morning, in company with a customs’ officer, and rode to the town of Natschivan, which lies in a large valley, surrounded by the lofty mountains of Ararat.  The country here is fertile, but there are very few trees.

I never had so much trouble to obtain shelter in any place as in this.  I had two letters, one to a German physician, the other to the governor.  I did not wish to go to the latter in my travelling dress, as I was again among cultivated people, who are accustomed to judge of you by your dress, and there was no inn.  I therefore intended to ask accommodation in the doctor’s house.  I showed the address, which was written in the native language, to several people to read, that they might point out the house to me; but they all shook their heads, and let me go on.  At last I came to the custom-house, where my little luggage was immediately taken possession of, and myself conducted to the inspector.  He spoke a little German, but paid no regard to my request.  He told me to go into the custom-house, and unlock my portmanteau.

The inspector’s wife and sister accompanied me.  I was much astonished at this politeness, but found, however, too soon that other reasons had induced them to come—­both the ladies wished to see what I had brought with me.  They had chairs brought, and took their places before my portmanteau, which was opened, when three pair of hands were thrust in.  A number of papers folded together, coins, dried flowers, and other objects, obtained from Nineveh, were instantly seized hold of, and thrown about; every ribbon, every cap, was taken out; and it was clearly perceptible that the inspector’s wife had some difficulty in parting with them again.