The reception-room was very large and lofty; the front and back (of which the former looked out into the court-yard, the latter into the garden), consisted of windows, the panes of which were in very small six and eight-sided pieces, framed in gilded wood; on the door-posts there was also some gilding.  The floor was covered with carpeting; and at the place where the mistress of the house sat, another piece of rich carpet was laid over.  In Persia, there are no divans, but only thick round pillows for leaning upon.

Intimation had previously been given of my visit.  I found a large party of women and young girls assembled, who had probably been attracted here by their curiosity to see a European woman.  Their dress was costly, like that of the princess, but there was a difference in the jewellery.  Several among them were very handsome, although they had rather broad foreheads, and too prominent cheek-bones.  The most charming features of the Persians are their eyes, which are remarkable, as well for their size as their beautiful form and animated expression.  Of course, there was no want of paint on their skins and eye-brows.

This party of women was the most agreeable and unconstrained that I ever found in Oriental houses.  I was able to converse in French with the mistress of the house, by the help of her son, of about eighteen, who had received an excellent education in Constantinople.  Not only the son, but also the mother and the other women, were read and well-informed.  Dr. Cassolani, moreover, assured me that the girls of rich families could nearly all read and write.  They are, in this respect, far in advance of the Turks.

The mistress of the house, her son, and myself, sat upon chairs, the rest squatted down on carpets round us.  A table, the first that I had seen in a Persian house, was covered with a handsome cloth, and set out with the most magnificent fruits, sherbets, and various delicacies, which had been prepared by my host herself; among the sweetmeats were sugared almonds and fruits, which not only appeared inviting, but tasted deliciously.

The sweet melons and peaches were just in their prime during my stay at Tebris.  They were so delicious, that it may well be said Persia is their native country.  The melons have more frequently a whitish, or greenish, than a yellow pulp.  They may be eaten entirely, with the exception of the outermost thin rind; and, if it were possible for anything to exceed sugar in sweetness, it would be these melons.  The peaches are also juicy, sweet, and aromatic.

Before leaving Tebris, I must say a few words about the people.  The complexion of the common men is rather more than sunburnt; among the upper classes, white is the prevailing colour of the skin.  They all have black hair and eyes.  Their figures are tall and powerful, the features very marked—­especially the nose—­and the look rather wild.  The women, both of the upper and lower classes, are