with my guide, who told them the tale which I had imposed upon him—­that I was a poor pilgrim, and that the English consuls or missionaries paid all my travelling expenses.  My dress, the smallness of my baggage, and being alone, agreed perfectly with this; they believed him, and my silent supplicative look, and let me go; they even asked me if I would have some water, of which there is a scarcity in these villages.  I begged them for a draught, and so we parted good friends.  Nevertheless I was for some time fearful that they might repent their generosity and follow us.

We came to the shores of the lake again today, and continued to travel for some time at its side.  After a ride of fourteen hours, we rested at a chan in the village of Schech-Vali.

3rd August.  The oppressive sense of fear was now at an end.  We passed through peaceful inhabited valleys, where the people were working in the fields, carrying home corn, tending cattle, etc.

During the hot noon hours we rested at Dise-halil, a rather considerable town, with very clean streets; the principal street is intersected by a clear brook, and the court-yards of the houses resemble gardens.  Here also I saw outside the town a great number of very large gardens surrounded by high walls.

From the number of chans, this town would appear to be very much visited.  In the small street through which we passed, I counted more than half a dozen.  We dismounted at one of them, and I was quite astonished at the conveniences which I found there.  The stalls were covered; the sleeping-places for the drivers were on pretty walled terraces; and the rooms for travellers, although destitute of all furniture, were very clean, and furnished with stoves.  The chans were open to every one, and there is nothing to pay for using them; at the utmost, a small trifle is given to the overseer, who provides the travellers’ meals.

In this respect, the Persians, Turks, and the so-called uncultivated people, are much more generous than we are.  In India, for example, where the English build bungalows, travellers must pay a rupee per night, or even for an hour, which does not include any provision for the driver or the animals:  they are obliged to take their rest in the open air.  The travellers who are not Christians are not allowed to come into most of the bungalows at all; in a few they are admitted, but only when the rooms are not required by a Christian; if, however, one should arrive at night, the poor unbeliever is obliged to turn out for him without pity.  This humane custom extends also to the open bungalows, which consist only of a roof and three wooden walls.  In the countries of the unbelievers, however, those who come first have the place, whether they are Christians, Turks, or Arabs; indeed, I am firmly convinced, that if all the places were occupied by unbelievers, and a Christian was to come, they would make room for him.