30th July.  About 1 o’clock at night my guide began to stir himself, saddled my horse, and called me to mount.  Still I was at a loss to understand his proceedings, for I saw no signs of a caravan.  Could he mean to take his revenge on me?  Why did he travel at night through a country which he ought to have chosen day-time for?  I did not understand enough Persian to be able to obtain an explanation, and did not wish to say anything more to the fellow about not keeping his contract, so I was obliged to go—­and I did go.

With great anxiety I mounted my horse and ordered my guide, who was inclined to ride behind, to go on in front.  I had no mind to be attacked from behind, and kept my hand constantly on my pistols.  I listened to every sound, watched every movement of my guide, even the shadow of my own horse sometimes scared me; however, I did not turn back.

After a sharp ride of about half-an-hour, we came up with a large caravan train, which was guarded by half a dozen well-armed peasants.  It really appeared that the place was very dangerous, and that my guide had been acquainted with the passing of a caravan.  Nothing caused me more surprise on this occasion, than the indolence of these people.  As they are accustomed to travel in the night during the hot season, they also continue the custom at other times, and pass through the most dangerous places, although the danger would be much less during the day.

After some hours we came to the Lake Oromia, which henceforth continued on our right side; on the left lay barren hills, ravines and mountains, extending for some miles, forming a most dreaded place.  Morning brought us into another beautiful fruitful valley, studded with villages, the sight of which gave me courage to leave the caravan, and hasten on.

The Lake Oromia, from which the town takes its name, is more than sixty miles long, and in many places more than thirty wide.  It appears closely surrounded by lofty mountains, although considerable levels intervene.  Its water contains so much salt, that neither fish nor mollusca can live in it.  It is a second Dead Sea—­it is said that a human body cannot sink in it.  Large patches of the shore are covered with thick, white saline incrustations, so that the people have only to separate the salt they want from the ground.  Although the lake, and the country round it are very beautiful, they do not present a very attractive prospect, as the surface of the lake is not enlivened by any boats.

Since I had left the sandy deserts round Baghdad, I had not seen any camels, and thought that I should not see this animal again, as I was travelling northwards.  To my astonishment, we met several trains of camels, and I learnt afterwards, that these animals were used as beasts of burden by the Kurds, as well as the Arabs.  This is a proof that they are able to bear a colder climate; for in winter the snow drifts to a depth of several feet in the valleys.  The camels in these districts are somewhat more robust, their feet are thicker, their hair closer and longer, their necks longer, and not nearly so slender, and their colour darker.  I did not see any light-coloured ones.