After a ride of seven hours we came to a large fruitful and inhabited valley.  Today’s journey seemed to promise a favourable termination, for we were now in an inhabited neighbourhood, and frequently passed villages.  Some peasants were still working here and there in the fields, their appearance greatly amused me:  they wore the high black Persian caps, which were comically contrasted with their ragged dress.

We remained in this valley, over night, at the village Mahomed-Jur.  If I had not been too idle I might have had an excellent meal of turtle.  I saw several of them on the road by the brooks, and even in the fields, and had only to pick them up.  But then to hunt for wood, make a fire, and cook!  No; I preferred eating a crust of bread and a cucumber in quiet.

29th July.  This morning we reached, in three hours, the village of Mahomed-Schar.  To my astonishment my driver made preparations for stopping here.  I urged him to continue the journey, but he explained to me that he could not go any further without a caravan, as the most dangerous part of the journey was now before us.  At the same time he pointed to some dozens of horses in an adjoining stubble field, and endeavoured to make me understand that in a few hours a caravan was going our way.  The whole day passed, and the caravan did not appear.  I thought that my guide was deceiving me; and was exceedingly irritated when, in the evening, he arranged my mantle on the ground for me to sleep.  It was now necessary that I should make a strenuous effort to show the fellow that I would not be treated like a child, and remain here as long as he thought fit.  Unfortunately I could not scold him in words, but I picked up the mantle and threw it at his feet, and explained to him that I would keep the remainder of the fare if he did not bring me to Oromia to-morrow on the third day.  I then turned my back to him (one of the greatest slights), seated myself on the ground, and, resting my head in my hands, gave myself up to the most melancholy reflections.  What should I have done here if my guide had left me, or had thought fit to remain until a caravan happened to pass by.

During my dispute with the guide, some women had come up from the village.  They brought me some milk and some hot food, seated themselves by me, and inquired what I was so troubled about.

I endeavoured to explain the whole affair.  They understood me and took my part.  They were vexed with my guide, and endeavoured to console me.  They did not stir from me, and pressed me so heartily to partake of their food, that I found myself compelled to eat some.  It consisted of bread, eggs, butter, and water, which were boiled up together.  Notwithstanding my trouble, I enjoyed it very much.  When I offered the good people a trifle for this meal they would not take it.  They seemed gratified that I was more at ease.