It was only in the evening, when the father returned, that there was any order of peace; they dare not quarrel then, much less fight.

I never met with such conduct among any people—­even the poorest or lowest classes of the so-called heathens or unbelievers; I never saw their children attempt to strike their parents.  When I left Sauh-Bulak, I wrote a letter for the missionary, in which I directed his attention to the failings of this family, and besought him to counteract them, by teaching them that religion does not consist merely in prayers and fasts, in bible-reading, and going to church.

My stay here was far less bearable than at Ravandus.  I daily entreated the Persian merchant to help me to go on further, even if the journey should be attended with some danger.  He shook his head and explained to me, that there was no caravan going, and that if I travelled alone I might expect either to be shot or beheaded.

I bore it for five days, but it was impossible to do so any longer.  I begged the merchant to hire me a horse and a guide, and made up my mind at least to go as far as Oromia, fifty miles, in spite of all dangers or other circumstances.  I knew that I should find American missionaries there, and that I should then have no more anxiety about proceeding on further.

The merchant came on the following day, accompanied by a wild-looking man, whom he introduced to me as my guide.  I was obliged, in consequence of the danger of travelling without a caravan, to pay four times as much; but I was willing to accede to anything to be able to get away.  The bargain was made, and the guide pledged himself to start the next morning, and to bring me to Oromia in three days.  I paid him half of the money in advance, and retained the other half until we came to our journey’s end, so as to be able to fine him in case he did not keep his agreement.

I was partly glad and partly afraid when the contract was concluded, and to overcome my apprehensions, I went into the Bazaars, and walked about outside the town.

This town is situated in a small treeless valley near a range of hills.  Although I did not wear anything but the isar, I was never annoyed out of doors.  The bazaars are less beggarly than those at Ravandus, the chan is large and comfortable.  I found the appearance of the common people very repulsive.  Tall and strongly built, with marked features, which were still more disfigured by an expression of wildness and ferocity, they all appeared to me like robbers or murderers.

In the evening I put my pistols in proper order, and made up my mind not to sell my life cheaply.

28th July.  Instead of leaving Sauh-Bulak at sunrise, I did not start until towards mid-day.  I travelled on with my guide through desolate roads between treeless hills, and trembled involuntarily when any one met us.  However, thank God, there were no adventures to go through.  We had to fight indeed, but only with tremendous swarms of large grasshoppers which flew up in some places in clouds.  They were about three inches long, and were furnished with large wings of a red or blue colour.  All the plants and grass in the district were eaten away.  I was told that the natives catch these grasshoppers and dry and eat them.  Unluckily I never saw any such dish.