Our road continued on through the mountains.  We frequently descended, but again had to cross several heights, and, finally, came out upon a small elevated plain, which, on both sides, was bounded by steep declivities.  A village of huts, made of branches, was situated on this plain, and on the summits of two neighbouring rocks fortified works were erected.

My travelling companions remained behind here; but Ali went with me to the town of Ravandus, which only becomes visible from this side at a very short distance.

The situation and view of this town is most charming; not indeed from its beauty, for it is not more remarkable in that respect than other Turkish towns, but on account of its peculiarity.  It is situated upon a steep, isolated cone, surrounded by mountains.  The houses are built in the form of terraces, one above another, with flat roofs, which are covered with earth, stamped down hard, so as to resemble narrow streets, for which they serve to the upper houses, and it is frequently difficult to tell which is street and which roof.  On many of the terraces, walls, formed of the branches of trees, are erected, behind which the people sleep.  Lower down, the hill is surrounded by a fortified wall.

When I first caught hold of this eagle’s nest, I feared that I had not much probability of finding any conveniences for travellers, and every step further confirmed this opinion.  Ravandus was one of the most miserable towns I ever saw.  Ali conducted me over a beggarly bazaar to a dirty court, which I took for a stable, but was the chan; and, after I had dismounted, took me into a dark recess, in which the merchant, to whom I had a letter, sat upon the ground before his stall.  This merchant was the most considerable of his class in Ravandus.  Mr. Mansur, that was the merchant’s name, read over the letter which I had brought, for full a quarter of an hour, although it only consisted of a few lines, and then greeted me with a repeated salaam, which means “you are welcome.”

The good man must have concluded that I had not tasted any food today, for he very hospitably ordered breakfast immediately, consisting of bread, sheep’s cheese, and melons.  These were eaten all together.  My hunger was so great that I found this plan excellent.  I ate without ceasing.  The conversation, on the contrary, was not so successful; my host did not understand any European language, nor I any Asiatic language.  We made use of signs, and I took pains to make him understand that I was desirous of going on further as soon as possible.  He promised to do his utmost for me, and also explained that he would see to me during my stay; he was not married, and therefore could not receive me into his own house, but would take me to one of his relations.