We returned to Mosul on horseback in five hours and a half.  The power of endurance of the Arabian horses is almost incredible.  They were allowed only a quarter of an hour’s rest in Mosul, where they had nothing but water, and then travelled the eighteen miles back again during the hottest part of the day.  Mr. Ross told me that even this was not equal to the work done by the post horses:  the stations for these are from forty-eight to seventy-two miles distant from each other.  It is possible to travel from Mosul by Tokat to Constantinople in this way.  The best Arabian horses are found round Baghdad and Mosul.

An agent of the Queen of Spain had just purchased a stud of twelve magnificent horses (eight mares and four stallions), the dearest of which had cost on the spot 150 pounds sterling.  They stood in Mr. Rassam’s stable.  Their handsome, long, slender heads, their sparkling eyes, slight bodies, and their small delicately formed feet, would have filled any admirer of horses with delight.

I could now venture, not, indeed, without considerable risk, although with the possibility of some insult, upon the desired journey into Persia.  I sought a caravan to Tebris.  Unfortunately, I could not find one which went direct there, and I was, therefore, compelled to make this journey in separate stages, a circumstance which was so much the worse for me, as I was told that I should not find any Europeans on the way.

Nevertheless I took the chance.  Mr. Rassam arranged for me the journey as far as Ravandus, and furnished me with a letter of recommendation to one of the natives there.  I wrote out a small lexicon of Arabian and Persian words, and took leave of this hospitable family at sunset, on the 8th of July.  I started on this journey with some feelings of anxiety, and scarcely dared to hope for a fortunate termination.  On that account I sent my papers and manuscripts from here to Europe, so that in case I was robbed or murdered my diary would at least come into the hands of my sons. {270}

CHAPTER XX.  PERSIA.

JOURNEY OF THE CARAVAN TO RAVANDUS—­ARRIVAL AT AND STAY IN RAVANDUS—­
A KURDISH FAMILY—­CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY—­SAUH-BULAK—­OROMIA—­
AMERICAN MISSIONARIES—­KUTSCHIE—­THREE GENEROUS ROBBERS—­PERSIAN
CHANS AND ENGLISH BUNGALOWS—­ARRIVAL AT TEBRIS.

On the 8th of July the caravan guide called for me in the evening.  His appearance was so unfavourable that I should scarcely have ventured to travel a mile with him had I not been assured that he was a man well known in the place.  His dress consisted of rags and tatters, and his countenance resembled that of a robber.  Ali, that was his name, told me that the travellers and goods had already gone on and were encamped in the chan near Nebbi-Yunus, where they were to pass the night.  The journey was to be commenced before sunrise.  I found three men and some pack-horses; the men (Kurds) were no better in appearance than Ali, so that I could not promise myself much gratification from their society.  I took up my quarters for the night in the dirty court-yard of the chan, but was too much frightened to sleep well.