We took in wood several times during the passage, and on these occasions I could approach the inhabitants without fear, as they were inspired with respect for the well-manned and armed vessel.  In one instance, I was led far into the underwood in pursuit of some beautiful insects, when I found myself on a sudden surrounded by a swarm of women and children, so that I thought it advisable to hasten back again to the ship’s people—­not that any one offered me any violence; but they crowded round me, handled my dress, wanted to put on my straw bonnet; and this familiarity was far from pleasant on account of their extreme dirtiness.  The children seemed shockingly neglected; many were covered with pimples and small sores; and both great and small had their hands constantly in their hair.

At the places where we stopped they generally brought sheep and butter, both of which were singularly cheap.  A sheep cost at the utmost five krans (4s. 6d.).  They were very large and fat, with long thick wool, and fat tails of about fifteen inches long and eight inches broad.  Our crew had a better diet than I had ever noticed on board any ship.  What pleased me even more was the equal good treatment of the natives, who were not in any particular less thought of than the English.  I never met with greater order and cleanliness than here—­a proof that blows and thumps are not indispensably necessary, as I had so often been assured.

In the districts where the ground was covered with underwood and grass, I saw several herds of wild swine; and there were said to be lions here, who come from the mountains, especially during the winter time, when they carried off cows and sheep:  they very seldom attacked men.  I was so fortunate as to see a pair of lions, but at such a distance, that I cannot say whether they exceeded in beauty and size those in European menageries.  Among the birds, the pelicans were so polite as to make their respects to us by scraping.

21st May.  Today we saw the ruins of the palace of Khuszew Anushirwan at Ctesiphon.  Ctesiphon was formerly the capital of the Parthian, and afterwards of the new Persian empire:  it was destroyed by the Arabs in the seventeenth century.  Nearly opposite, on the right bank of the Tigris, lay Seleucia, one of the most celebrated towns of Babylon, and which, at the time of its prosperity, had a free independent government and a population of 600,000 souls.  The chief portion were Greeks.

One obtained two views of Ctesiphon in passing, in consequence of the river winding considerably—­almost running back again several miles.  I made a trip there from Baghdad, and therefore reserve my account of it.

The old caliphate appears in marvellous magnificence and extent from a distance, but unfortunately loses this on nearer approach.  The minarets and cupolas, inlaid with variegated earthenware tiles, glitter in the clear sunlight; palaces, gateways, and fortified works, in endless succession, bound the yellow, muddy Tigris; and gardens, with date and other fruit trees, cover the flat country for miles round.