The climate of Bombay is healthier than that of Calcutta; even the heat is more tolerable on account of the continual sea-breezes, although Bombay lies five degrees further south.  The mosquitoes here, as in all hot countries, are very tormenting.  A centipede slipped into my bed one evening, but I fortunately discovered it in time.

I had already decided upon taking my passage in an Arabian boat, which was to leave for Bassora on the 2nd of April, when Herr Wattenbach brought the news that on the 10th a small steamer would make its first voyage to Bassora.  This afforded me great pleasure—­ I did not suspect that it would happen with a steamer as with a sailing vessel, whose departure is postponed from day to day; nevertheless, we did not leave the harbour of Bombay until the 23rd of April.

CHAPTER XVII.  FROM BOMBAY TO BAGHDAD.

DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY—­SMALL-POX—­MUSCAT—­BANDR-ABAS—­THE PERSIANS—­
THE KISHMA STRAITS—­BUSCHIR—­ENTRANCE INTO THE SCHATEL-ARAB—­
BASSORA—­ENTRANCE INTO THE TIGRIS—­BEDOUIN TRIBES—­CTESIPHON AND
SELEUCIA—­ARRIVAL AT BAGHDAD.

The steamer “Sir Charles Forbes” (forty horse-power, Captain Lichfield) had only two cabins, a small and a large one.  The former had already been engaged for some time by an Englishman, Mr. Ross; the latter was bespoken by some rich Persians for their wives and children.  I was, therefore, obliged to content myself with a place upon deck; however, I took my meals at the captain’s table, who showed me the most extreme attention and kindness during the whole voyage.

The little vessel was, in the fullest sense of the word, overloaded with people; the crew alone numbered forty-five; in addition to that there were 124 passengers, chiefly Persians, Mahomedans, and Arabs.  Mr. Ross and myself were the only Europeans.  When this crowd of persons were collected, there was not the smallest clear space on the deck; to get from one place to another it was necessary to climb over innumerable chests and boxes, and at the same time to use great caution not to tread upon the heads or feet of the people.

In such critical circumstances I looked about immediately to see where I could possibly secure a good place.  I found what I sought, and was the most fortunate of all the passengers, more so than even Mr. Ross, who could not sleep any night in his cabin on account of the heat and insects.  My eye fell upon the under part of the captain’s dinner-table, which was fixed upon the stern deck; I took possession of this place, threw my mantle round me, so that I had a pretty secure position, and no cause to fear that I should have my hands, feet, or indeed my head trodden upon.

I was somewhat unwell when I left Bombay, and on the second day of the voyage a slight attack of bilious fever came on.  I had to contend with this for five days.  I crept painfully from my asylum at meal times to make way for the feet of the people at table.  I did not take any medicine (I carried none with me), but trusted to Providence and my good constitution.