The maid informed me, partly by signs, partly by words, that I had been expected since noon; that a palanquin stood ready for me, and that I could sleep as well in it as in the tent.  I was rejoiced at this, and again started on my journey at 11 o’clock at night.  The country was indeed, as I knew, infested with tigers, but as several torch-bearers accompanied us, and the tigers are sworn enemies of light, I could composedly continue my uninterrupted sleep.  About 3 o’clock in the morning, I was set down again in a tent, which was prepared for my reception, and furnished with every convenience.

16th February.  This morning I made the acquaintance of the amiable family of the Burdons.  They have seven children, whom they educate chiefly themselves.  They live very pleasantly and comfortably, although they are wholly thrown on their own resources for amusement, as there are, with the exception of Dr. Rolland, no Europeans in Kottah.  It is only very rarely that they are visited by officers who may be passing through, and I was the first European female Mrs. Burdon had seen for four years.

I passed the most delightful day in this family circle.  I was not a little astonished to find here all the conveniences of a well-regulated house; and I must take this opportunity of describing, in few words, the mode of travelling adopted by the English officers and officials in India.

In the first place, they have tents which are so large, that they contain two or three rooms; one which I saw was worth more than 800 rupees (80 pounds).  They take with them corresponding furniture, from a footstool to the most elegant divan; in fact, nearly the whole of the house and cooking utensils.  They have also a multitude of servants, every one of whom has his particular occupation, which he understands exceedingly well.  The travellers, after passing the night in their beds, about 3 o’clock in the morning either lie or sit in easy palanquins, or mount on horseback, and after four or five hours’ ride, dismount, and partake of a hot breakfast under tents.  They have every household accommodation, carry on their ordinary occupations, take their meals at their usual hours, and are, in fact, entirely at home.

The cook always proceeds on his journey at night.  As soon as the tents are vacated, they are taken down and quickly removed, and as quickly re-erected:  there is no scarcity of hands or of beasts of burden.  In the most cultivated countries of Europe, people do not travel with so much luxury and ease as in India.

In the evening, I was obliged to take my departure again.  Captain Burdon very kindly offered me the use of his palanquin and the necessary bearers as far as Indos, but I pitied the people too much, and declared that I did not find travelling on camels unpleasant; that in fact, on account of the open view, that mode was to be preferred to palanquins.  However, on account of my little portmanteau, I took a third camel.  I left the sepoys behind here.  This evening we went eight miles towards the little town Patan.