Travelling on camels is always unpleasant and troublesome.  The jolting motion of the animal produces in many people the same ill effects as the rocking of a ship on the sea; but in India it is almost unbearable, on account of the inconvenience of the arrangements.  Here each animal has a driver, who sits in front and takes the best place; the traveller has only a little space left for him on the hinder part of the animal.

Dr. Rolland advised me at once to put up with the inconvenience as well as I could.  He told me that I should fall in with Captain Burdon in the next day or two, and it would be easy to obtain a more convenient conveyance from him.  I followed his advice, allowed my luggage to be carried, and patiently mounted my camel.

We passed through extensive plains, which were most remarkable for some considerable flax plantations, and came to a beautiful lake, near to which lay a very pretty palace.  Towards evening, we reached the little village of Moasa, where we stayed for the night.

In those countries which are governed by native princes, there are neither roads nor arrangements for travelling; although in every village and town there are people appointed whose business it is to direct travellers on their way and carry their luggage, for which they are paid a small fee.  Those travellers who have a guard from the king or aumil (governor), or a cheprasse with them, do not pay anything for this attendance; others give them a trifle for their services, according as the distance is greater or less.

When I reached Moasa, every one hastened to offer me their services—­ for I travelled with the king’s people, and in this part of the country a European woman is a rarity.  They brought me wood, milk, and eggs.  My table was always rather frugally furnished:  at the best I had rice boiled in milk or some eggs, but generally only rice, with water and salt.  A leathern vessel for water, a little saucepan for boiling in, a handful of salt, and some rice and bread, were all that I took with me.

15th February.  Late in the evening I reached Nurankura, a small place surrounded by low mountains.  I found here some tents belonging to Captain Burdon, a maid, and a servant.  Terribly fatigued, I entered one of the tents directly, in order to rest myself.  Scarcely had I taken possession of the divan, than the maid came into the tent, and, without any observation, commenced kneading me about with her hands.  I would have stopped her, but she explained to me that when a person was fatigued it was very refreshing.  For a quarter of an hour she pressed my body from head to foot vigorously, and it certainly produced a good effect—­I found myself much relieved and strengthened.  This custom of pressing and kneading is very common in India, as well as in all Oriental countries, especially after the bath; and Europeans also willingly allow themselves to be operated upon.