The priests were here so tolerant as to admit us to all parts of the temple.  It is open on all sides, and forms an octagon.  Galleries run round the upper part, one-half of which are for women, the other for the musicians.  The sanctuary stands at the back of the temple; five bells hang before it, which are struck when women enter the temple; they rung out also at my entrance.  The curtained and closed doors were then opened, and afforded us a full view of the interior.  We saw there a little group of idols carved in stone.  The people who followed us with curiosity commenced a gentle muttering upon the opening of the doors.  I turned round, somewhat startled, thinking that it was directed against us and indicated anger, but it was the prayers, which they repeated in a low voice and with a feeling of devotion.  One of the Brahmins brushed off the flies from the intelligent countenances of the gods.

Several chapels join the large temple, and were all opened to us.  They contained red-painted stones or pictures.  In the front court sits a stone figure of a saint under a covering, completely clothed, and with even a cap on the head.  On the opposite bank of the river, a small hill rises, upon which rests the figure of a large and rather plump ox hewn in stone.  This hill is called the “holy mountain.”

Captain Burdon has built a very pretty house near the holy mountain, where he sometimes lives with his family.  I saw there a fine collection of stuffed birds, which he had brought himself from the Himalayas.  I was particularly struck by the pheasants, some of which shone with quite a metallic lustre; and there were some not less beautiful specimens of heathcocks.

I had now seen all, and therefore asked the doctor to order me a conveyance to Indor, 180 miles distant, for the next day.  He surprised me with the offer, on the part of the king, to provide me with as many camels as I required, and two sepoys on horseback as attendants.  I asked for two; the one for myself, the other for the driver and the servants which Dr. Rolland sent with me.

CHAPTER XV.  JOURNEY FROM DELHI TO BOMBAY CONTINUED.

TRAVELLING ON INDIAN CAMELS—­MY MEETING WITH THE BURDON FAMILY—­THE
DIFFERENT CLASSES OF WOMEN AMONG THE NATIVE POPULATION IN INDIA—­
UDJEIN—­CAPTAIN HAMILTON—­INTRODUCTION AT COURT—­MANUFACTURE OF ICE—­
THE ROCK TEMPLES OF ADJUNTA—­A TIGER HUNT—­THE ROCK TEMPLES OF
ELORA—­THE FORTRESS OF DOWLUTABAD.

14TH February.  The camels were ordered at 5 o’clock in the morning, but it was not until towards noon that they came, each with a driver.  When they saw my portmanteau (twenty-five pounds in weight), they were quite puzzled to know what to do with it.  It was useless my explaining to them how the luggage is carried in Egypt, and that I had been accustomed to carry very little with me on my own animal:  they were used to a different plan, and would not depart from it.