afford gold and silver, they content themselves with some other metals.  They wear also rings of horn, bone, or glass beads, on the fingers, arms, and feet.  On the feet they carry bells, so that they are heard at a distance of sixty paces; the toes are covered with broad heavy rings, and they have rings hanging from their noses down to the chin, which they are obliged to tie up at meal time.  I pitied the poor creatures, who suffered not a little from their finery!  The eyebrows and eyelids are dyed black while the children are very young, and they frequently paint themselves with dark-blue streaks of a finger’s breadth over the eyebrows, and with spots on the forehead.  The adult women tattoo their breasts, foreheads, noses, or temples with red, white, or yellow colours, according as they are particularly attached to one or the other deity.  Many wear amulets or miniatures hung round their necks, so that I at first thought they were Catholics, and felt gratified at the brilliant successes of the missionaries.  But, when I came nearer to one of the people, that I might see these pictures better, what did I discover there?  Perhaps a beautiful Madonna!—­a fair-haired angel’s head!—­an enthusiastic Antonio of Padua!  Ah no!  I was met by the eight-armed god Shiva grinning at me, the ox’s head of Vishnu, the long-tongued goddess Kalli.  The amulets contained, most probably, some of the ashes of one of their martyrs who had been burned, or a nail, a fragment of skin, a hair of a saint, a splinter from the bone of a sacred animal, etc.

13th February.  Dr. Rolland conducted me to the little town of Kesho-Rae-Patum, one of the most sacred in Bunda and Rajpootan.  It lies on the other side of the river, six miles from Kottah.  A great number of pilgrims come here to bathe, as the water is considered particularly sacred at this spot.  This belief cannot be condemned, when it is remembered how many Christians there are who give the preference to the Holy Maria at Maria-Zell, Einsiedeln, or Loretto, which, nevertheless, all represent one and the same.

Handsome steps lead from the heights on the banks down to the river, and Brahmins sit in pretty kiosks to take money from believers for the honour of the gods.  On one of the flights of steps lay a very large tortoise.  It might quietly sun itself there in safety—­no one thought of catching it.  It came out of the sacred river; indeed, it might, perhaps, be the incarnation of the god Vishnu himself. {204} Along the river stood numbers of stone altars, with small bulls, and other emblematical figures, also cut in stone.  The town itself is small and miserable, but the temple is large and handsome.