11th February.  On this, the thirteenth day of my journey, I reached Kottah.  I was very well satisfied with my servants and driver, and indeed with the journey altogether!  The owners of the caravansaries had not charged me more than a native; and had afforded me all the conveniences which the strict rules of religion allowed.  I had passed the nights in open chambers, even under the open sky, surrounded by people of the poorest and lowest classes, and never received the slightest ill-treatment either by word or deed.  I never had anything stolen, and when ever I gave any little trifle to a child, {200} such as a piece of bread, cheese, or the like, their parents always endeavoured to show their gratitude by other acts of kindness.  Oh, that the Europeans only knew how easily these simple children of nature might be won by attention and kindness!  But, unfortunately, they will continue to govern them by force, and treat them with neglect and severity.

Kottah is the chief city of the kingdom of Rajpootan.  Here, as in all those provinces which the English government has left under the dominion of their native princes, there is an English official appointed, who bears the title of the “Resident.”  These residents might be properly called “kings,” or at least the king’s governors, since the real kings cannot do anything without their consent.  These miserable shadows of kings dare not, for example, cross the boundaries of their own states without permission of the resident.  The more important fortresses of the country have English garrisons, and here and there small English military stations are established.

This control is in some respects beneficial to the people, in others injurious.  The custom of burning widows is done away with, and strictly forbidden; as well as the horrible punishment of being trodden to death by elephants, or dragged along, tied to their tails.  On the other hand, the taxation is increased, for the king is obliged to pay a considerable tribute for the right of ruling according to the will of the resident.  This naturally comes out of the pockets of the people.  The King of Rajpootan pays annually 300,000 rupees (30,000 pounds) to the English government.

The resident at Kottah, Captain Burdon, was an intimate friend of Dr. Sprenger’s, who had previously acquainted him with my speedy arrival.  But, unfortunately, he was at that time inspecting the different military stations; however, he had before his departure made arrangements for my reception, and requested Dr. Rolland to see them carried out.  He carried his attentions so far as to send on books, newspapers, and servants, to the last station, which, however, I missed, as my driver had turned off from the main road, during the last two days, into a shorter one.  I reached the handsome bungalow of the resident, and found the house quite vacant; Mrs. Burdon, together with her children, had accompanied her husband, as is generally the case in India, where frequent change of air is very necessary for Europeans.  The house, the servants, and sepoys which were left, and the captain’s palanquin and equipage, were placed entirely at my disposal; and in order to complete my happiness, Dr. Rolland was so good as to accompany me in all my excursions.