To the various objects of interest in the streets already noticed, must be added the jugglers, mountebanks, and serpent charmers, who wander about everywhere, and are always surrounded by a crowd of curious people.

I saw several tricks performed by the jugglers which were truly astonishing.  One poured out fire and smoke from his mouth; then mixed white, red, yellow, and blue powders together, swallowed them, and then immediately spit out each one separately and dry; some turned their eyes downwards, and when they again raised them the pupils appeared as if of gold; they then bowed the head forward, and on again raising it, the pupils of their eyes had their natural colour, and their teeth were gold.  Others made a small opening in their skin, and drew out of it yards of thread, silk cord, and narrow ribbons.  The serpent charmers held the animals by their tails, and allowed them to twine round their arms, neck, and body; they took hold of large scorpions, and let them run over their hands.  I also saw several battles between large serpents and ichneumons.  These little animals, rather larger than a weasel, live, as is known, upon serpents and the eggs of crocodiles.  They seize the former so dexterously by the neck that they always master them; the crocodile eggs they suck.

At the end of the principal street stands the imperial palace, which is considered one of the finest buildings in Asia.  It occupies, together with its adjoining buildings, an extent of more than two miles, and is surrounded by a wall forty feet high.

At the principal entrance, a fine perspective view is obtained through several successive gateways, which is terminated in the background by a handsome hall.  This hall is but small, and is inlaid with white marble and rare stones; the roof is arched over with mica, powdered over with small stars.  Unfortunately, these will soon lose all their glittering brilliancy, as the greater portion of the mica has already fallen, and the remainder is likely to follow.  At the back of the hall is a door of gilt metal, decorated with beautiful engraved work.  In this hall the ex-monarch is accustomed to show himself to the people, who, from traditionary respect or curiosity, visit the palace.  He also receives European visitors here.

The handsomest parts of the imperial palace are the universally admired and magnificent audience saloon and the mosque.  The former stands in the centre of an open court; it is a long, square building; the roof is supported by thirty columns, and is open on all sides; several steps lead up to it, and a prettily decorated marble gallery, two feet high, surrounds it.

The present Great Mogul has so little taste, that he has had this divan divided into two parts by a very paltry partition wall.  A similar wall adjoins both sides of the saloon, for what purpose I could not learn.  In this divan is a great treasure:  the largest crystal in the world.  It is a block of about four feet in length, two and a half broad, and one foot thick; {185} it is very transparent.  It was used by the emperors as a throne or seat in the divan.  Now it is hidden behind the blank wall; and if I had not known of its existence from books, and been very curious to see it, it would not have been shown to me at all.