It is extremely interesting to walk about the principal streets of Delhi in the evening.  There may be seen at once the modes of life of both the rich and the poor Indians.  There is no town in which there are so many princes and nobles as in this.  Besides the pensioned emperor and his relations, whose number amounts to several thousand, many other deposed and pensioned regents and ministers reside here.  Their presence gives great animation to the town; they are fond of going out in public, frequently make greater or less parties, and ride (always on elephants) either in the neighbouring gardens, or in the evenings through the streets.  In the day excursions, the elephants are decorated in the most costly manner with rugs and fine stuffs, gold lace, and fringe; the seats called the howdahs are even covered with Cashmere shawls; richly fringed canopies keep off the heat of the sun, or else servants hold enormous umbrellas for this purpose.  The princes and nobles sit in these howdahs to the number of two or four, and are very gorgeously attired in Oriental costumes.  These processions present a most beautiful appearance, and are even larger and more splendid than those of the Rajah of Benares, which I have described.  Each procession consists frequently of as many as a dozen or more elephants, and fifty or sixty soldiers on foot and mounted, and as many servants, etc.  In the evenings, on the contrary, they are not so pompous—­one elephant, together with a few servants, suffices; they ride up and down the streets, coquetting with females of a certain class, who sit richly dressed and with unveiled faces at open windows or outside galleries.  Others ride noble Arabian horses, whose stately appearance is still more increased by gold-embroidered trappings and bridles inlaid with silver.  Between these riding parties, heavily laden camels from far distant regions walk deliberately along.  There are, moreover, not a few bailis, drawn by beautiful white oxen, which the less wealthy people or the above mentioned women use.  The bailis, as well as the oxen, are draped with scarlet cloths:  the animals have their horns and the lower half of their feet painted brownish-red, and round their neck is a handsome collar, on which bells are fastened.  The most beautiful women peep modestly out of the half-open bailis.  If it were not known to what class unveiled women belong in India, it would be impossible to tell their position from their behaviour.  Unfortunately, there are more of this class in India than in any other country:  the principal cause of this is an unnatural law, a revolting custom.  The girls of every family are generally betrothed when they are only a few months old; if, however, the bridegroom dies immediately, or at any time after the betrothal, the girl is considered as a widow, and as such cannot marry again.  They then generally become dancers.  The condition of widowhood is looked upon as a great misfortune, as it is believed that only those women are placed in this position, who have deserved it in a previous state of existence.  An Indian can only marry a girl belonging to his own caste.