Although the number of slaves in the Brazils is very great, there is nowhere such a thing as a slave-market.  The importation of them is publicly prohibited, yet thousands are smuggled in every year, and disposed of in some underhand manner, which every one knows, and every one employs.  It is true, that English ships are constantly cruising off the coasts of Brazil and Africa, but even if a slaver happen to fall into their hands, the poor blacks, I was told, were no more free than if they had come to the Brazils.  They are all transported to the English colonies, where, at the expiration of ten years, they are supposed to be set at liberty.  But during this period, their owners allow the greater number to die—­of course, in the returns only—­and the poor slaves remain slaves still; but I repeat that I only know this from hearsay.

After all, slaves are far from being as badly off as many Europeans imagine.  In the Brazils they are generally pretty well treated; they are not overworked, their food is good and nutritious, and the punishments are neither particularly frequent nor heavy.  The crime of running away is the only one which is visited with great rigour.  Besides a severe beating, they have fetters placed round their neck and feet; these they have to wear for a considerable period.  Another manner of punishment consists in making them wear a tin mask, which is fastened with a lock behind.  This is the mode of punishment adopted for those who drink, or are in the habit of eating earth or lime.  During my long stay in the Brazils, I only saw one negro who had got on a mask of this description.  I very much doubt whether, on the whole, the lot of these slaves is not less wretched than that of the peasants of Russia, Poland, or Egypt, who are not called slaves.

I was one day very much amused at being asked to stand godmother to a negro, which I did, although I was not present at either baptism or confirmation.  There is a certain custom here, that when a slave has done anything for which he expects to be punished, he endeavours to fly to some friend of his owner, and obtain a note, asking for the remission of his punishment.  The writer of such a letter has the title of godfather bestowed on him, and it would be accounted an act of the greatest impoliteness not to grant the godfather’s request.  In this way, I myself was fortunate enough to save a slave from punishment.

The town is tolerably well lighted, and the lighting is continued to a considerable distance, on all sides, beyond the town itself; this measure was introduced on account of the great number of blacks.  No slave dare be seen in the streets later than 9 o’clock in the evening, without having a pass from his master, certifying that he is going on business for him.  If a slave is ever caught without a pass, he is immediately conveyed to the House of Correction, where his head is shaved, and he himself obliged to remain until his master buys his freedom for four or five milreis. (8s. 8d., or 10s. 10d.) In consequence of this regulation, the streets may be traversed with safety at any hour of the night.