An Englishman (unfortunately I have forgotten his name) who travelled in India for scientific purposes, proves that the peasants have now to suffer more than formerly under their native princes.

In India, under the so-called “free English government,” I found a sad proof that the position of the slaves in Brazil is better than that of the free peasants here.  The slave there has not to provide for any of his wants, and he is never burdened with too much work, as the interest of his master would then suffer; for a slave costs seven or eight hundred gulders (70 or 80 pounds), and it is to the interest of his owner that he should be well treated, that he may be longer of service.  It cannot be denied that there are cases in which the slaves are tyrannically treated, but this is extremely rare.

Several German and English missionaries reside in the neighbourhood of Benares, and go constantly to the town to preach.  At one of these missionary establishments is a Christian village, which contains more than twenty Hindoo families.  Nevertheless, Christianity makes scarcely any advance. {173} I inquired of each of the missionaries how many Hindoos or Mahomedans they had baptized in the course of their labours:  generally they said, “None;” very seldom, “One.”  The above mentioned families result from the year 1831, when nearly the whole of India was ravaged by cholera, nervous fever, or famine; the people died, and many children remained orphans, wandering about without a home.  The missionaries took these, and brought them up in the Christian religion.  They were instructed in all kinds of trades, were housed, married, and their whole maintenance provided for.  The descendants of these families are continually educated by the missionaries, and strictly watched:  as to new converts, however, there are unfortunately none.

I was present at several examinations:  the boys and girls seemed to have been taught well to read, write, reckon, and were well acquainted with religion and geography.  The girls were clever embroiderers, they did needle-work very well, and sewed all kinds of things; the boys and men made tables, carpets, bound books, printed, etc.  The director and professor of this excellent establishment is the missionary, Mr. Luitpold; his wife has the superintendence of the girls.  The whole is sensibly and intelligently arranged and conducted; Mr. and Mrs. Luitpold attend to their proteges with true Christian love.  But what are a few drops in an immeasurable sea?

CHAPTER XIII.  ALLAHABAD, AGRA, AND DELHI.

ALLAHABAD—­CAUNIPOOR—­AGRA—­THE MAUSOLEUM OF SULTAN AKBAR—­TAJ-
MEHAL—­THE RUINED TOWN OF FATIPOOR—­SIKRI—­DELHI—­THE MAIN STREET—­
PUBLIC PROCESSIONS—­THE EMPEROR’S PALACE—­PALACES AND MOSQUES—­OLD
DELHI—­REMARKABLE RUINS—­THE ENGLISH MILITARY STATION.

From Benares, Mr. Law and myself travelled in a post-dock to Allahabad.  The distance, which amounts to seventy-six miles, occupies about twelve or thirteen hours.  We left the sacred town on the 7th of January, 1848, at 6 o’clock in the evening, and early in the morning found ourselves already near Allahabad, at a long bridge of boats which here crosses the Ganges.