On the 10th of December, after a stay of more than five weeks, I left Calcutta for Benares.  The journey may be performed either by land, or else by water, on the Ganges.  By land, the distance is 470 miles; by water, 800 miles during the rainy season, and 465 miles more during the dry months, as the boats are compelled to take very circuitous routes to pass from the Hoogly, through the Sonderbunds, into the Ganges.

The land journey is performed in post-palanquins, carried by men, who, like horses, are changed every four or six miles.  The traveller proceeds by night as well as day, and at each station finds people ready to receive him, as a circular from the post-office is always sent a day or two before, to prepare them for his arrival.  At night the train is increased by the addition of a torch-bearer, to scare off the wild beasts by the glare of his torch.  The travelling expenses for one person are about 200 rupees (20 pounds), independent of the luggage, which is reckoned separately.

The journey by water can be accomplished in steamers, one of which leaves almost every week for Allahabad (135 miles beyond Benares).  The journey occupies from fourteen to twenty days, as, on account of the numerous sand-banks, it is impossible for the vessel to proceed on her course except in the day-time, and even then it is by no means unusual for her to run aground, especially when the water is low.

The fares to Benares are:  first cabin, 257 rupees (25 pounds 14s.); second cabin, 216 rupees (21 pounds 12s.).  Provisions, without wine or spirits, three rupees (6s.) a day.

As I had heard so much of the magnificent banks of the Ganges, and of the important towns situated on them, I determined to go by water.

On the 8th of December, according to the advertisement, the steamer “General Macleod,” 140 horse-power, commanded by Captain Kellar, was to leave her moorings; but on going on board, I received the gratifying intelligence that we should have to wait twenty-four hours, which twenty-four hours were extended to as much again, so that we did not actually set off before 11 o’clock on the morning of the 10th.  We first proceeded down the stream to the sea as far as Katcherie, and on the following day we rounded Mud Point, and entered the Sonderbunds, where we beat about as far as Culna.  From there we proceeded up the Gury, a large tributary stream flowing into the Ganges below Rumpurbolea.  During the first few days, the scenery was monotonous to the highest degree; there were neither towns nor villages to be seen; the banks were flat, and the prospect everywhere bounded by tall, thick bushes, which the English term jungles, that is to say, “virgin forests.”  For my own part, I could see no “virgin forests,” as by this term I understand a forest of mighty trees.  During the night, we heard, from time to time, the roaring of tigers.  These animals are pretty abundant in these parts, and frequently attack the natives