by one of them upon a poor, dripping, half-starved dog, who, with tail between his legs, now and then ventures near them to search for his miserable meal.  Beyond, on the river, a few barks silently lying upon the stream, and on the opposite bank some buildings with a church and a campanile dimly seen through the mist.  After coffee we were obliged to go to the dogana to see to the searching of all our trunks and luggage.  The principals were present and we were not severely searched.  A Frenchman, however, who had come on a little before us, was stripped to his skin, some papers were found upon him, and I understand he has made his escape and they are now searching for him....

“At 2.30, after having dined, we waded through the mud in a pelting rain to the dogana for our luggage, and, after getting completely wet, we embarked on board the courier boat, with a cabin seven feet long, six feet wide, and six high, into which six of us, having a gentleman from Trieste and his mother added to our number, were crowded, with no beds....  Rain, rain, rain!!! in torrents, cold and dreary through a perfectly flat country....  At ten o ’clock we arrived at a place called Cavanella, where is a locanda upon the canal which should have been open to receive us, but they were all asleep and no calling would rouse them.  So we were obliged to go supperless to bed, and such abed!  There being no room to spread mattresses for six in the cabin, three dirty mattresses, without sheets or blankets, were laid on the floor of the forward cabin (if it might so be called).  This cabin was a hole down into which two or three steps led.  We could not stand upright,—­indeed, kneeling, our heads touched the top,—­and when stretched at full length the tallest of us could touch with his head and feet from side to side.  But, it being dreary and damp without and we being sleepy, we considered not the place, nor its inconveniences, nor its little pests which annoyed us all night, nor its vicinity to a magazine of cheese, with which the boat was laden and the odors from which assailed us.  We lay down in our clothes and slept; the rain pattering above our heads only causing us to sleep the sounder.”

Continuing their leisurely journey in this primitive manner, the rain finally ceasing, but the sky remaining overcast and the weather cold and wintry, they reached Chioggia, and “At 11.30, the towers and spires of Venice were seen at a distance before us rising from the sea.”  Venice, of course, was a delight to Morse’s eye, but his nose was affected quite differently, for he says:  “Those that have resided in Venice a long time say it is not an unhealthy place.  I cannot believe it, for the odors from the canals cannot but produce illness of some kind.  That which is constantly offensive to any of our organs of sense must affect them injuriously.”

Several severe thunderstorms broke over the city while he was there, and one was said to be the worst which had been known within the memory of the oldest inhabitant.  After describing it he adds:  “I was at the Academy.  The rain penetrated through the ceiling at the corner of the picture I was copying—­’The Miracle of the Slave,’ by Tintoret—­and threatened injury to it, but happily it escaped.”