“Friday, April 16. At the Vatican all day.  I went to the soiree of the Signor Persianis in the evening.  Here I had the pleasure of meeting for the first line with the Chevalier Thorwaldsen, the great Danish sculptor, the first now living.  He is an old man in appearance having a profusion of grey hair, wildly hanging over his forehead and ears.  His face has a strong Northern character, his eyes are light grey, and his complexion sandy; he is a large man of perfectly unassuming manners and of most amiable deportment.  Daily receiving homage from all the potentates of Europe, he is still without the least appearance of ostentation.  He readily assented to a request to sit for his portrait which I hope soon to take.

“Tuesday, April 27. My birthday.  How time flies and to how little purpose have I lived!!

“Wednesday, April 28. I have noticed a difference in manners between the English, French, and Americans.  If you are at the house of a friend and should happen to meet Englishmen who are strangers to you, no introduction takes place unless specially requested.  The most perfect indifference is shown towards you by these strangers, quite as much as towards a chair or table.  Should you venture a word in the general conversation, they might or might not, as the case may be, take notice of it casually, but coldly and distantly, and even if they should so far relax as to hold a conversation with you through the evening, the moment they rise to go all recognition ceases; they will take leave of every one else, but as soon think of bowing to the chair they had left as to you.

“A Frenchman, on the contrary, respectfully salutes all in the room, friends and strangers alike.  He seems to take it for granted that the friends of his friend are at least entitled to respect if not to confidence, and without reserve he freely enters into conversation with you, and, when he goes, he salutes all alike, but no acquaintance ensues.

“An American carries his civility one step further; if he meets you afterwards, in other company, the fact that he has seen you at this friend’s and had an agreeable chit-chat is introduction enough, and, unless there is something peculiar in your case, he will ever after know you and be your friend.  This is not the case with the two former.

“The American is in this, perhaps, too unsuspicious and the others may have good reasons for their mode, but that of the Americans has more of generous sincerity and frankness and kindness in it.

“Friday, April 30. Painting all day except two hours at the Colonna Palace—­Landi’s pictures—­horrible!!  How I was disappointed.  I had heard Landi, the Chevalier Landi, lauded to the skies by the Italians as the greatest modern colorist.  He was made a chevalier, elected a member of the Academy at Florence and of the Academy of St. Luke in Rome, and there were his pictures which I was told I must