“Palazzo Simbaldi:  At half-past eight the company began to assemble in the splendid saloon of this palace, to which I was invited.  The singers, about forty in number, were upon a stage erected at the end of the room; white drapery hung behind festoons with laurel wreaths (the walls were painted in fresco).  Four female statues standing on globes upheld seven long wax-lights; the instrumental musicians, about forty, were arranged at the foot of these statues; sala was lighted principally by six glass chandeliers; much female beauty in the room; dresses very various.

“Signora Luigia Tardi sang with much judgment and was received with great applause.  A little girl, apparently about twelve years old, played upon the harp in a most exquisite manner, and called forth bravas of the Italians and of the foreigners bountifully.

“The manners of the audience were the same as those of fashionable society in our own country, and indeed in any other country; the display in dress, however, less tasteful than I have seen in New York.  But, in truth, I have not seen more beauty and taste in any country, combined with cultivation of mind and delicacy of manner, than in our own.  At one o’clock in the morning, or half-past six Italian time, the concert was over.

“Saturday, March 27. On returning to dinner I found at the post-office, to my great joy, the first letter from America since I left it.

“Sunday, March 28. Passion Sunday.  Kept awake nearly all last night by a severe toothache; sent for a dentist and had the tooth extracted, for which he had the conscience to ask me three dollars—­he took two.  Was prevented by this circumstance from going to church this morning; went in the afternoon, and, after church, to St. Peter’s; found all the crosses covered with black and all the pictures veiled.  There were a great many in the church to hear the music which is considered very fine; some of it I was well pleased with, but it is by no means so impressive as the singing of the nuns at the Trinita di Monti, to which church we repaired at vespers.

“In St. Peter’s we found a procession of about forty nuns; some of them were very pretty and their neat white headdresses, and kerchiefs, and hair dressed plain, gave a pleasing simplicity to their countenances.  Some, looked arch enough and far from serious.

“Monday, March 29. Early this morning was introduced to the Chevalier Horace Vernet, principal of the French Academy; found him in the beautiful gardens of the Academy.  He came in a neglige dress, a cap, or rather turban, of various colors, a parti-colored belt, and a cloak.  He received me kindly, walked through the antique gallery of casts, a long room and a splendid collection selected with great judgment.

“Wednesday, March 31. Early this morning was waked by the roar of a cannon; learned that it was the anniversary of the present Pope’s election.  Went to the Vatican; the colonnade was filled with the carriages of the cardinals; that of the new English cardinal, Weld, was the most showy.