a peculiarity of the capital, but this day after dinner a hand-organ played waltzes and songs, and, as if this were not enough, a performer on the guitar succeeded, playing songs, while two or three persons with long cards filled with specimens of natural history—­lobsters, crabs, and shells of various kinds—­were busy in displaying their handiwork to us, and each concluded his part of the ceremony by presenting a little cup for a contribution.”

The letter ends here, and, as I have found but few more of that year, we must depend on his hurriedly written notebooks for a further record of his wanderings.

Leaving Dijon on January 18, Morse and his companions continued their journey through Chalons-sur-Saone, to Macon and Lyons, which they reached late at night.  The next two days were spent in viewing the sights of Lyons, which are described at length in his journal.  Most of these notes I shall omit.  Descriptions of places and of scenery are generally tiresome, except to the authors of them, and I shall transcribe only such portions as have a more than ordinary personal or historic interest.  For instance the following entry is characteristic of Morse’s simple religious faith:—­

“From the Musee we went to the Hotel Dieu, a hospital on a magnificent and liberal scale.  The apartments for the sick were commodiously and neatly arranged.  In one of them were two hundred and twelve cots, all of which showed a pale or fevered face upon the pillow.  The attendants were women called ‘Sisters of Charity,’ who have a peculiar costume.  These are benevolent women who (some of them of rank and wealth) devote themselves to ministering to the comfort and necessities of the wretched.

“Benevolence is a trait peculiarly feminine.  It is seen among women in all countries and all religions, and although true religion sets out this jewel in the greatest beauty, yet superstition and false religions cannot entirely destroy its lustre.  It seems to be one of those virtues permitted in a special manner by the Father of all good to survive the ruins of sin on earth, and to withstand the attacks of Satan in his attempts on the happiness of man; and to woman in a marked manner He has confided the keeping of this virtue.  She was first in the transgression but last at the cross.”

Leaving Lyons at four o’clock on the morning of the 22d, they journeyed slowly towards Avignon, delayed by the condition of the roads covered by an unusual fall of snow which was now melting under the breath of a warm breeze from the south.  On the way they pass “between the two hills a telegraph making signals.”  This was, of course, a semaphore by means of which visual signals were made.

Reaching Avignon on the night of the 23d, they went the next day, which was Sunday, in search of a Protestant church, but none was to be found in this ancient city of the Popes, so they followed a fine military band to the church of St. Agricola and attended the services there, the band participating and making most glorious music.