Letters of a Traveller eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 376 pages of information about Letters of a Traveller.
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Letters of a Traveller eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 376 pages of information about Letters of a Traveller.

“They may dismiss their fears,” said a shrewd friend of mine, with whom I was discussing the subject.  “Endowments are a cause of lukewarmness and weakness.  Our Presbyterian friends here, instead of protesting so vehemently against what Sir Robert Peel has done, should thank him for endowing the Catholic Church, for in doing it he has deprived it of some part of its hold upon the minds of men.”

There is much truth, doubtless, in this remark.  The support of religion to be effectual should depend upon individual zeal.  The history of the endowed chapels of dissenting denominations in England is a curious example of this.  Congregations have fallen away and come to nothing, and it is a general remark that nothing is so fatal to a sect as a liberal endowment, which provides for the celebration of public worship without individual contributions.

Letter XXIII.

The Scottish Lakes.

Glasgow, July 19, 1845.

I must not leave Scotland without writing you another letter.

On the 17th of this month I embarked at Newhaven, in the environs of Edinburgh, on board the little steamer Prince Albert, for Stirling.  On our way we saw several samples of the Newhaven fishwives, a peculiar race, distinguished by a costume of their own; fresh-colored women, who walk the streets of Edinburgh with a large wicker-basket on their shoulders, a short blue cloak of coarse cloth under the basket, short blue petticoats, thick blue stockings, and a white cap.  I was told that they were the descendants of a little Flemish colony, which long ago settled at Newhaven, and that they are celebrated for the readiness and point of their jokes, which, like those of their sisters of Billingsgate, are not always of the most delicate kind.  Several of these have been related to me, but on running them over in my mind, I find, to my dismay, that none of them will look well on paper.  The wit of the Newhaven fishwives seems to me, however, like that of our western boatmen, to consist mainly in the ready application of quaint sayings already current among themselves.

It was a wet day, with occasional showers, and sometimes a sprinkling of Scotch mist.  I tried the cabin, but the air was too close.  The steamboats in this country have but one deck, and that deck has no shelter, so I was content to stand in the rain for the sake of the air and scenery.  After passing an island or two, the Frith, which forms the bay of Edinburgh, contracts into the river Forth.  We swept by country seats, one of which was pointed out as the residence of the late Dugald Stewart, and another that of the Earl of Elgin, the plunderer of the Parthenon; and castles, towers, and churches, some of them in ruins ever since the time of John Knox, and hills half seen in the fog, until we came opposite to the Ochil mountains, whose grand rocky buttresses advanced from the haze almost to the river.  Here, in the

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Letters of a Traveller from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.