Washington shows the Negro not only at his best, but also at his worst.  As I drove around with the doctor, he commented rather harshly on those of the latter class which we saw.  He remarked:  “You see those lazy, loafing, good-for-nothing darkies; they’re not worth digging graves for; yet they are the ones who create impressions of the race for the casual observer.  It’s because they are always in evidence on the street corners, while the rest of us are hard at work, and you know a dozen loafing darkies make a bigger crowd and a worse impression in this country than fifty white men of the same class.  But they ought not to represent the race.  We are the race, and the race ought to be judged by us, not by them.  Every race and every nation should be judged by the best it has been able to produce, not by the worst.”

The recollection of my stay in Washington is a pleasure to me now.  In company with the doctor I visited Howard University, the public schools, the excellent colored hospital, with which he was in some way connected, if I remember correctly, and many comfortable and even elegant homes.  It was with some reluctance that I continued my journey south.  The doctor was very kind in giving me letters to people in Richmond and Nashville when I told him that I intended to stop in both of these cities.  In Richmond a man who was then editing a very creditable colored newspaper gave me a great deal of his time and made my stay there of three or four days very pleasant.  In Nashville I spent a whole day at Fisk University, the home of the “Jubilee Singers,” and was more than repaid for my time.  Among my letters of introduction was one to a very prosperous physician.  He drove me about the city and introduced me to a number of people.  From Nashville I went to Atlanta, where I stayed long enough to gratify an old desire to see Atlanta University again.  I then continued my journey to Macon.

During the trip from Nashville to Atlanta I went into the smoking-compartment of the car to smoke a cigar.  I was traveling in a Pullman, not because of an abundance of funds, but because through my experience with my millionaire a certain amount of comfort and luxury had become a necessity to me whenever it was obtainable.  When I entered the car, I found only a couple of men there; but in a half-hour there were half a dozen or more.  From the general conversation I learned that a fat Jewish-looking man was a cigar manufacturer, and was experimenting in growing Havana tobacco in Florida; that a slender bespectacled young man was from Ohio and a professor in some State institution in Alabama; that a white-mustached, well-dressed man was an old Union soldier who had fought through the Civil War; and that a tall, raw-boned, red-faced man, who seemed bent on leaving nobody in ignorance of the fact that he was from Texas, was a cotton planter.

In the North men may ride together for hours in a “smoker” and unless they are acquainted with each other never exchange a word; in the South men thrown together in such manner are friends in fifteen minutes.  There is always present a warm-hearted cordiality which will melt down the most frigid reserve.  It may be because Southerners are very much like Frenchmen in that they must talk; and not only must they talk, but they must express their opinions.