Women watched us from the doors of La Bassee—­still going on living here, somehow, as human beings will on the volcano’s very edge—­and children were playing in the street.  Husbands gone, food gone, the country swept bare—­why did they not go, too?  But where?  Here, at any rate, there was a roof overhead—­until a shell smashed it—­and food soldiers were glad to share.  There must be strange stories to tell of these little islands on the edge of the battle, where the soldiers who are going out to be killed, and the women whose husbands, perhaps, are going to help kill them, huddle together for a time, victims of a common storm.

We whirled past them down the road a bit, then walked up a gentle slope to the right.  Over this low ridge, from the English trenches, rifle-bullets whistled above our heads.  In the shelter of a brick farmhouse a dozen or so German soldiers were waiting, after trench service, to go back to La Bassee.  They were smallish, mild-looking men, dusted with the yellow clay in which they had burrowed—­clothes, boots, faces, and hands—–­until they looked like millers.

“How are the English?” some one asked.  “Do they know how to shoot?” A weary sort of hoot chorused out from the dust-covered men.

“Gut genug!” they said.  The house was strewn with rusty cartridge clips and smashed brick.  We waited while our chaperon brought the battalion commander—­a mild-faced little man, more like a school-teacher than a soldier—­and it was decided that, as the trenches were not under fire at the moment, we might go into them.  He led the way into the communication trench—­a straight-sided winding ditch, shoulder-deep, and just wide enough to walk in comfortably.  Yellow clay was piled up overhead on either side, and there was a wooden sidewalk.  The ditch twisted constantly as the trenches themselves do, so as not to be swept by enfilading fire, and after some hundreds of yards of this twisting, we came to the:  first-line trench and the men’s dugouts.

It was really a series of little caves, with walls of solid earth and roofs of timber and sand-bags, proof against almost anything but the plunging flight of heavy high-explosive shells.  The floors of these caves were higher than the bottom of the trench, so that an ordinary rain would not flood them, and covered with straw.  And they were full of men, asleep, working over this and that—­from one came the smell of frying ham.  The trench twisted snakelike in a general north and south direction, and was fitted every few feet with metal firing-shields, loopholed for rifles and machine guns.  In each outer curve facing the enemy a firing platform, about waist-high, had been cut in the earth, with similar armored port-holes.

The Germans had been holding this trench for three months, and its whole outer surface was frosted a sulphurous yellow from the smoke of exploded shells.  Shrapnel-casings and rusted shell-noses were sticking everywhere in the clay, and each curve exposing a bit of surface to the enemy was honeycombed with bullet holes.  In one or two places sand-bags, caves, and all had been torn out.