Here, from about 4 p.m. till long after sunset, you may see the Shirazi taking his rest, undisturbed save for the ripple of running water, the sighing of the breeze through the branches, and croon of the pigeons overhead.  Now and again the tinkle of caravan-bells breaks in upon his meditations, or the click-click of the attendant’s sandals as he crosses the tiled floor with sherbet, coffee, or kalyan; but the interruption is brief.  A few moments, and silence again reigns supreme—­the perfection of rest, the acme of Dolce far niente. From here my way usually lay homewards, through the dusky twilight, past the city gates and along the now deserted plain.  A limestone hill to the south of Shiraz bears an extraordinary resemblance to the head of a man in profile.  Towards sunset the likeness was startling, and the nose, chin, and mouth as delicately formed as if chiselled by the tools of a sculptor.  On fine, still evenings, parties of people would sometimes sit out on the plain till long after dark, conversing, eating sweetmeats, and tea-drinking, till the stars appeared, and the white fever mist, gathering round the ramparts, hid the city from view.  Shiraz has been called the “Paris of Persia,” from the cheerful, sociable character of its people as compared with other Persian cities; also, perhaps, partly from the beauty and coquetry (to use no other term) of its women.

I was enabled, thanks to my host, to glean some interesting facts concerning the latter, many European ladies having, from time to time, resided in Shiraz, and, obtaining access to the “anderoon,” had afterwards given Mr. F——­ the benefit of their observations.

Persian women are unquestionably allowed more freedom and liberty than those of other Oriental countries.  It is extremely rare, in the bazaars of Stamboul or Cairo, to see a lady of the harem unattended, but the sight is common enough in Shiraz and Ispahan.  Infidelity in Persia is therefore more common in proportion to the licence allowed; though, when discovered, it is severely punished, in some cases by death.  Though a few are highly educated, the majority of Persian women are ignorant, indolent, and sensual. Mariages de convenance are as common as in France, and have a good deal to do with the immorality and intrigue that go on in the larger cities.

An eye-witness thus describes an “anderoon,” or harem, of a prince in Ispahan:  “A large courtyard some thirty yards by ten in extent.  All down the centre is the ‘hauz,’ or tank—­a raised piece of ornamental water, the surface of which is about two feet above the ground.  The edges are formed of huge blocks of well-wrought stone, so accurately levelled that the ‘hauz’ overflows all round its brink, making a pleasant sound of running water.  Goldfish of large size flash in shoals in the clear tank.  On either side of it are long rectangular flower-beds, sunk six inches below the surface of the court.  This pavement, which consists of what we should call pantiles, is