The government of Persia is that of an absolute monarchy.  The Shah alone has power of life and death, and, even in the most remote districts, the assent of the sovereign is necessary before an execution can take place.  The Shah appoints his own ministers.  These are the “Sadr-Azam,” or Prime Minister; the “Sapar-Sala,” Commander-in-chief; “Mustof-al-Mamalak,” Secretary of State, and Minister of Foreign Affairs.  These are supposed to represent the Privy Council, but they very seldom meet, the Shah preferring to manage affairs independently.  The total revenue of the latter has been estimated at seven million pounds sterling.

Nasr-oo-din, who is now sixty-five years of age, ascended the throne in 1848.  His reign commenced inauspiciously with a determined attempt to assassinate him, made by a gang of fanatics of the Babi sect.  The plot, though nearly successful, was frustrated, and the conspirators executed; but it is said that the Shah has lived in constant dread of assassination ever since.  He is hypochondriacal, and, though in very fair health, is constantly on the qui vive for some imaginary ailment.  The post of Court physician, filled for many years past by Dr. Tholozan, a Frenchman, is no sinecure.

The habits of the Shah are simple.  He is, unlike most Persians of high class, abstemious as regards both food and drink.  Two meals a day, served at midday and 9 p.m., and those of the plainest diet, washed down by a glass or two of claret or other light wine, are all he allows himself.  When on a hunting-excursion, his favourite occupation, the Shah is even more abstemious, going sometimes a whole day without food of any kind.  He is a crack shot, and is out nearly daily, when the weather permits, shooting over his splendid preserves around Teheran.  There is no lack of sport.  Tiger and bear abound; also partridge, woodcock, snipe, and many kinds of water-fowl; but the Shah is better with the rifle than the fowling-piece.  The Shah is passionately fond of music, and has two or three string and brass bands trained and conducted by a Frenchman.  When away on a long sporting-excursion, he is invariably accompanied by one of these bands.

Were it not for the running attendants in scarlet and gold, and the crimson-dyed [D] tail of his horse, no one would take the slim, swarthy old gentleman in black frock-coat, riding slowly through the streets, and beaming benignly through a huge pair of spectacles, for the great Shah-in-Shah himself.  Yet he is stern and pitiless enough when necessary, as many of the Court officials can vouch for.  But few have escaped the bastinado at one time or another; but in Persia this is not considered an indignity, even by the highest in the land.  The stick is painful, certainly, but not a disgrace in this strange country.