[Sidenote: "Coiffer St. Catherine"]
You can see Joan of Arc’s flames quite plain, we went there as soon as we were dressed. “Antoine” would insist it was only the black from a smoky chimney, but I paid no attention to him. The Horloge is nice, and we did a lot of churches, but they always look to me just the same, and any way they all smell alike, and I don’t think I shall bother with any more. We had breakfast on the Sauterelle, but it was so fine after we left Vernon, and yesterday, that we could have it each day in the bows under the awning, and so had not to wash our forks and plates. The Chateaux are so picturesque, and such woods! after you leave Rouen. Heloise did not sleep yesterday. “Antoine” talked so much, no one could really have had a comfortable nap. In the afternoon the Marquise told us our fortunes; she said Heloise would marry twice, which made her look as pleased as Punch, but Jean did not think it at all funny, though every one else laughed She told me I should probably be an old maid ("Coiffer St. Catherine"), and so I said in that case I should run pins into the horrid old saint’s head: I simply won’t be an old maid, Mamma, so they need not make any more predictions. However, it would be worse to be one here than at home, because even up to forty, if you aren’t married, you mayn’t go to the nice theatres, or talk to people alone, or even speak much more than “Yes” and “No,” and you generally get a nasty moustache or something. We saw a whole family of elderly girls at our hotel at Rouen, and they all had moustaches or moles on the cheek.