Several sorts of cherries were known, but these did not prevent the small wild or wood cherry from being appreciated at the tables of the citizens; whilst the cornouille, or wild cornelian cherry, was hardly touched, excepting by the peasants; thence came the proverbial expression, more particularly in use at Orleans, when a person made a silly remark, “He has eaten cornelians,” i.e., he speaks like a rustic.

In the thirteenth century, chestnuts from Lombardy were hawked in the streets; but, in the sixteenth century, the chestnuts of the Lyonnais and Auvergne were substituted, and were to be found on the royal table.  Four different sorts of figs, in equal estimation, were brought from Marseilles, Nismes, Saint-Andeol, and Pont Saint-Esprit; and in Provence, filberts were to be had in such profusion that they supplied from there all the tables of the kingdom.

The Portuguese claim the honour of having introduced oranges from China; however, in an account of the house of Humbert, Dauphin of Viennois, in 1333, that is, long before the expeditions of the Portuguese to India, mention is made of a sum of money being paid for transplanting orange-trees.

[Illustration:  Figs. 81 and 82.—­Culture of the Vine and Treading the Grape.—­Miniatures taken from the Calendar of a Prayer-Book, in Manuscript, of the Sixteenth Century.]

In the time of Bruyerin Champier, physician to Henry II., raspberries were still completely wild; the same author states that wood strawberries had only just at that time been introduced into gardens, “by which,” he says, “they had attained a larger size, though they at the same time lost their quality.”

The vine, acclimatised and propagated by the Gauls, ever since the followers of Brennus had brought it from Italy, five hundred years before the Christian era, never ceased to be productive, and even to constitute the natural wealth of the country (Fig. 81 and 82).  In the sixteenth century, Liebault enumerated nineteen sorts of grapes, and Olivier de Serres twenty-four, amongst which, notwithstanding the eccentricities of the ancient names, we believe that we can trace the greater part of those plants which are now cultivated in France.  For instance, it is known that the excellent vines of Thomery, near Fontainebleau, which yield in abundance the most beautiful table grape which art and care can produce, were already in use in the reign of Henry IV. (Fig. 83).

[Illustration:  Fig. 83.—­The Winegrower, drawn and engraved in the Sixteenth Century, by J. Amman.]

In the time of the Gauls the custom of drying grapes by exposing them to the sun, or to a certain amount of artificial heat, was already known; and very soon after, the same means were adopted for preserving plums, an industry in which then, as now, the people of Tours and Rheims excelled.  Drying apples in an oven was also the custom, and formed a delicacy which was reserved for winter and spring banquets.  Dried fruits were also brought from abroad, as mentioned in the “Book of Street Cries in Paris:”—­