wilderness of color and odor met above our heads and made a twilight; then it opened into long, dazzling, sun-bright vistas, where the hues of the oleander, pomegranate and white rose made the eye wink with their gorgeous profusion.  The mountains we crossed were covered with thickets of myrtle, mastic, daphne, and arbutus, and all the valleys and sloping meads waved with fig, mulberry, and olive trees.  Looking towards the sea, the valley broadened out between mountain ranges whose summits were lost in the clouds.  Though the soil was not so rich as in Palestine, the general aspect of the country was much wilder and more luxuriant.

So, by this glorious lane, over the myrtled hills and down into valleys, whose bed was one hue of rose from the blossoming oleanders, we travelled for five hours, crossing the low ranges of hills through which the Orontes forces his way to the sea.  At last we reached a height overlooking the valley of the river, and saw in the east, at the foot of the mountain chain, the long lines of barracks built by Ibrahim Pasha for the defence of Antioch.  Behind them the ancient wall of the city clomb the mountains, whose crest it followed to the last peak of the chain, From the next hill we saw the city—­a large extent of one-story houses with tiled roofs, surrounded with gardens, and half buried in the foliage of sycamores.  It extends from the River Orontes, which washes its walls, up the slope of the mountain to the crags of gray rock which overhang it.  We crossed the river by a massive old bridge, and entered the town.  Riding along the rills of filth which traverse the streets, forming their central avenues, we passed through several lines of bazaars to a large and dreary-looking khan, the keeper of which gave us the best vacant chamber—­a narrow place, full of fleas.

Antioch presents not even a shadow of its former splendor.  Except the great walls, ten to fifteen miles in circuit, which the Turks have done their best to destroy, every vestige of the old city has disappeared.  The houses are all of one story, on account of earthquakes, from which Antioch has suffered more than any other city in the world.  At one time, during the Middle Ages, it lost 120,000 inhabitants in one day.  Its situation is magnificent, and the modern town, notwithstanding its filth, wears a bright and busy aspect.  Situated at the base of a lofty mountain, it overlooks, towards the east, a plain thirty or forty miles in length, producing the most abundant harvests.  A great number of the inhabitants are workers in wood and leather, and very thrifty and cheerful people they appear to be.