water, beside a square pile of masonry, upon which
sat two Moslem dervishes. This, we were told,
was the Tomb of Joseph, whose body, after having accompanied
the Israelites in all their wanderings, was at last
deposited near Shechem. There is less reason
to doubt this spot than most of the sacred places
of Palestine, for the reason that it rests, not on
Christian, but on Jewish tradition. The wonderful
tenacity with which the Jews cling to every record
or memento of their early history, and the fact that
from the time of Joseph a portion of them have always
lingered near the spot, render it highly probable
that the locality of a spot so sacred should have
been preserved from generation to generation to the
present time. It has been recently proposed to
open this tomb, by digging under it from the side.
If the body of Joseph was actually deposited here,
there are, no doubt, some traces of it remaining.
It must have been embalmed, according to the Egyptian
custom, and placed in a coffin of the Indian sycamore,
the wood of which is so nearly incorruptible, that
thirty-five centuries would not suffice for its decomposition.
The singular interest of such a discovery would certainly
justify the experiment. Not far from the tomb
is Jacob’s Well, where Christ met the Woman
of Samaria. This place is also considered as
authentic, for the same reasons. If not wholly
convincing to all, there is, at least, so much probability
in them that one is freed from that painful coldness
and incredulity with which he beholds the sacred shows
of Jerusalem.
Leaving the Tomb of Joseph, the road turned to the
west, and entered the narrow pass between Mounts Ebal
and Gerizim. The former is a steep, barren peak,
clothed with terraces of cactus, standing on the northern
side of the pass. Mount Gerizim is cultivated
nearly to the top, and is truly a mountain of blessing,
compared with its neighbor. Through an orchard
of grand old olive-trees, we reached Nablous, which
presented a charming picture, with its long mass of
white, dome-topped stone houses, stretching along
the foot of Gerizim through a sea of bowery orchards.
The bottom of the valley resembles some old garden
run to waste. Abundant streams, poured from the
generous heart of the Mount of Blessing, leap and gurgle
with pleasant noises through thickets of orange, fig,
and pomegranate, through bowers of roses and tangled
masses of briars and wild vines. We halted in
a grove of olives, and, after our tent was pitched,
walked upward through the orchards to the Ras-el-Ain
(Promontory of the Fountain), on the side of Mount
Gerizim. A multitude of beggars sat at the city
gate; and, as they continued to clamor after I had
given sufficient alms, I paid them with “Allah
deelek!”—(God give it to you!)—the
Moslem’s reply to such importunity—and
they ceased in an instant. This exclamation,
it seems, takes away from them the power of demanding
a second time.