Leaving Jerusalem—­The Tombs of the Kings—­El Bireh—­The Hill-Country—­First View of Mount Hermon—­The Tomb of Joseph—­Ebal and Gerizim—­The Gardens of Nablous—­The Samaritans—­The Sacred Book—­A Scene in the Synagogue—­Mentoi and Telemachus—­Ride to Samaria—­The Ruins of Sebaste—­Scriptural Landscapes—­Halt at Genin—­The Plain of Esdraelon—­Palestine and California—­The Hills of Nazareth—­Accident—­Fra Joachim—­The Church of the Virgin—­The Shrine of the Annunciation—­The Holy Places.

  “Blest land of Judea! thrice hallowed of song,
  Where the holiest of memories pilgrim-like throng: 
  In the shade of thy palms, by the shores of thy sea,
  On the hills of thy beauty, my heart is with thee!”

  J. G. Whittier.

Latin Convent, Nazareth, Friday May 7, 1852.

We left Jerusalem by the Jaffa Gate, because within a few months neither travellers nor baggage are allowed to pass the Damascus Gate, on account of smuggling operations having been carried on there.  Not far from the city wall there is a superb terebinth tree, now in the full glory of its shining green leaves.  It appears to be bathed in a perpetual dew; the rounded masses of foliage sparkle and glitter in the light, and the great spreading boughs flood the turf below with a deluge of delicious shade.  A number of persons were reclining on the grass under it, and one of them, a very handsome Christian boy, spoke to us in Italian and English.  I scarcely remember a brighter and purer day than that of our departure.  The sky was a sheet of spotless blue; every rift and scar of the distant hills was retouched with a firmer pencil, and all the outlines, blurred away by the haze of the previous few days, were restored with wonderful distinctness.  The temperature was hot, but not sultry, and the air we breathed was an elixir of immortality.

Through a luxuriant olive grove we reached the Tombs of the Kings, situated in a small valley to the north of the city.  Part of the valley, if not the whole of it, has been formed by quarrying away the crags of marble and conglomerate limestone for building the city.  Near the edge of the low cliffs overhanging it, there are some illustrations of the ancient mode of cutting stone, which, as well as the custom of excavating tombs in the rock, was evidently borrowed from Egypt.  The upper surface of the rocks, was first made smooth, after which the blocks were mapped out and cut apart by grooves chiselled between them.  I visited four or five tombs, each of which had a sort of vestibule or open portico in front.  The door was low, and the chambers which I entered, small and black, without sculptures of any kind.  The tombs bear some resemblance in their general plan to those of Thebes, except that they are without ornaments, either sculptured or painted.  There are fragments of sarcophagi in some of them.  On the southern side of the valley is a large quarry, evidently worked for marble, as the blocks have been cut out from below, leaving a large overhanging mass, part of which has broken off and fallen down.  Some pieces which I picked up were of a very fine white marble, somewhat resembling that of Carrara.  The opening of the quarry made a striking picture, the soft pink hue of the weather-stained rock contrasting exquisitely with the vivid green of the vines festooning the entrance.