and vaults—without any definite plan or
any architectural beauty, though very rich in parts
and full of picturesque effects. Golden lamps
continually burn before the sacred places, and you
rarely visit the church without seeing some procession
of monks, with crosses, censers, and tapers, threading
the shadowy passages, from shrine to shrine It is
astonishing how many localities are assembled under
one roof. At first, you are shown, the stone on
which Christ rested from the burden of the cross;
then, the place where the soldiers cast lots for His
garments, both of them adjoining the Sepulchre.
After seeing this, you are taken to the Pillar of
Flagellation; the stocks; the place of crowning with
thorns; the spot where He met His mother; the cave
where the Empress Helena found the cross; and, lastly,
the summit of Mount Calvary. The Sepulchre is
a small marble building in the centre of the church.
We removed our shoes at the entrance, and were taken
by a Greek monk, first into a sort of ante-chamber,
lighted with golden lamps, and having in the centre,
inclosed in a case of marble, the stone on which the
angel sat. Stooping through a low door, we entered
the Sepulchre itself. Forty lamps of gold burn
unceasingly above the white marble slab, which, as
the monks say, protects the stone whereon the body
of Christ was laid. As we again emerged, our
guide led us up a flight of steps to a second story,
in which stood a shrine, literally blazing with gold.
Kneeling on the marble floor, he removed a golden
shield, and showed us the hole in the rock of Calvary,
where the cross was planted. Close beside it was
the fissure produced by the earthquake which followed
the Crucifixion. But, to my eyes, aided by the
light of the dim wax taper, it was no violent rupture,
such as an earthquake would produce, and the rock
did not appear to be the same as that of which Jerusalem
is built. As we turned to leave, a monk appeared
with a bowl of sacred rose-water, which he sprinkled
on our hands, bestowing a double portion on a rosary
of sandal-wood which I carried But it was a Mohammedan
rosary, brought from Mecca, and containing the sacred
number of ninety-nine beads.
I have not space here to state all the arguments for
and against the localities in the Holy Sepulchre,
I came to the conclusion that none of them were authentic,
and am glad to have the concurrence of such distinguished
authority as Dr. Robinson. So far from this being
a matter of regret, I, for one, rejoice that those
sacred spots are lost to the world. Christianity
does not need them, and they are spared a daily profanation
in the name of religion. We know that Christ has
walked on the Mount of Olives, and gone down to the
Pool of Siloam, and tarried in Bethany; we know that
here, within the circuit of our vision, He has suffered
agony and death, and that from this little point went
out all the light that has made the world greater
and happier and better in its later than in its earlier
days.