costume, but in spite of an ample turban, my face soon began to scorch in the dry heat.  From the crest of the Hill of Offence there is a wide view over the heights on both sides of the valley of the Brook Kedron.  Their sides are worked into terraces, now green with springing grain, and near the bottom planted with olive and fig trees.  The upland ridge or watershed of Palestine is cultivated for a considerable distance around Jerusalem.  The soil is light and stony, yet appears to yield a good return for the little labor bestowed upon it.

Crossing the southern flank of Mount Olivet, in half an hour we reached the village of Bethany, hanging on the side of the hill.  It is a miserable cluster of Arab huts, with not a building which appears to be more than a century old.  The Grotto of Lazarus is here shown, and, of course, we stopped to see it.  It belongs to an old Mussulman, who came out of his house with a piece of waxed rope, to light us down.  An aperture opens from the roadside into the hill, and there is barely room enough for a person to enter.  Descending about twenty steps at a sharp angle, we landed in a small, damp vault, with an opening in the floor, communicating with a short passage below.  The vault was undoubtedly excavated for sepulchral purposes, and the bodies were probably deposited (as in many Egyptian tombs) in the pit under it.  Our guide, however, pointed to a square mass of masonry in one corner as the tomb of Lazarus, whose body, he informed us, was still walled up there.  There was an arch in the side of the vault, once leading to other chambers, but now closed up, and the guide stated that seventy-four Prophets were interred therein.  There seems to be no doubt that the present Arab village occupies the site of Bethany; and if it could be proved that this pit existed at the beginning of the Christian Era, and there never had been any other, we might accept it as the tomb of Lazarus.  On the crest of a high hill, over against Bethany, is an Arab village on the site of Bethpage.

We descended into the valley of a winter stream, now filled with patches of sparse wheat, just beginning to ripen.  The mountains grew more bleak and desolate as we advanced, and as there is a regular descent in the several ranges over which one must pass, the distant hills of the lands of Moab and Ammon were always in sight, rising like a high, blue wall against the sky.  The Dead Sea is 4,000 feet below Jerusalem, but the general slope of the intervening district is so regular that from the spires of the city, and the Mount of Olives, one can look down directly upon its waters.  This deceived me as to the actual distance, and I could scarcely credit the assertion of our Arab escort, that it would require six hours to reach it.  After we had ridden nearly two hours, we left the Jericho road, sending Mustapha and a staunch old Arab direct to our resting-place for the night, in the Valley of the Jordan.  The two mounted Bedouins accompanied us across the rugged mountains lying between us and the Dead Sea.