neck of the sandy little peninsula, connecting Gibraltar with the main land, we rode under the terrible batteries which snarl at Spain from this side of the Rock.  Row after row of enormous guns bristle the walls, or look out from the galleries hewn in the sides of inaccessible cliffs An artificial moat is cut along the base of the Rock, and a simple bridge-road leads into the fortress and town.  After giving up my passport I was allowed to enter, Jose having already obtained a permit from the Spanish authorities.

I clattered up the long street of the town to the Club House, where I found a company of English friends.  In the evening, Jose made his appearance, to settle our accounts and take his leave of me.  While scrambling down the rocky stair-way of Gaucin, Jose had said to me:  “Look you, Senor, I am very fond of English beer, and if I get you to Gibraltar to day you must give me a glass of it.”  When, therefore, he came in the evening, his eyes sparkled at the sight of a bottle of Alsop’s Ale, and a handful of good Gibraltar cigars.  “Ah, Senor,” said he, after our books were squared, and he had pocketed his gratification, “I am sorry we are going to part; for we are good friends, are we not, Senor?” “Yes, Jose,” said I; “if I ever come to Granada again, I shall take no other guide than Jose Garcia; and I will have you for a longer journey than this.  We shall go over all Spain together, mi amigo!” “May God grant it!” responded Jose, crossing himself; “and now, Senor, I must go.  I shall travel back to Granada, muy triste, Senor, muy triste” The faithful fellows eyes were full of tears, and, as he lifted my hand twice to his lips, some warm drops fell upon it.  God bless his honest heart; wherever he goes!

And now a word as to travelling in Spain, which is not attended with half the difficulties and annoyances I had been led to expect.  My experience, of course, is limited to the provinces of Andalusia, but my route included some of the roughest roads and most dangerous robber-districts in the Peninsula.  The people with whom I came in contact were invariably friendly and obliging, and I was dealt with much more honestly than I should have been in Italy.  With every disposition to serve you, there is nothing like servility among the Spaniards.  The native dignity which characterizes their demeanor prepossesses me very strongly in their favor.  There is but one dialect of courtesy, and the muleteers and common peasants address each other with the same grave respect as the Dons and Grandees.  My friend Jose was a model of good-breeding.