We had intended making the ascent of Olympus, but the summit was too thickly covered with clouds.  On the morning of the second day, therefore, we determined to take up the line of march for Constantinople.  The last scene of our strange, eventful history with the katurgees had just transpired, by their deserting us, being two hundred piastres in our debt.  They left their khan on the afternoon after our arrival, ostensibly for the purpose of taking their beasts out to pasture, and were never heard of more.  We let them go, thankful that they had not played the trick sooner.  We engaged fresh horses for Moudania, on the Sea of Marmora, and dispatched Francois in advance, to procure a caique for Constantinople, while we waited to have our passports signed.  But after waiting an hour, as there was no appearance of the precious documents, we started the baggage also, under the charge of a surroudjee, and remained alone.  Another hour passed by, and yet another, and the Bey was still occupied in sleeping off his hunger.  Mr. Harrison, in desperation, went to the office, and after some delay, received the passports with a vise, but not, as we afterwards discovered, the necessary one.

It was four o’clock by the time we left Brousa.  Our horses were stiff, clumsy pack-beasts; but, by dint of whips and the sharp shovel-stirrups, we forced them into a trot and made them keep it.  The road was well travelled, and by asking everybody we met:  “Bou yol Moudania yedermi?” ("Is this the way to Moudania?"), we had no difficulty in finding it.  The plain in many places is marshy, and traversed by several streams.  A low range of hills stretches across, and nearly closes it, the united waters finding their outlet by a narrow valley to the north.  From the top of the hill we had a grand view, looking back over the plain, with the long line of Brousa’s minarets glittering through the interminable groves at the foot of the mountain Olympus now showed a superb outline; the clouds hung about his shoulders, but his snowy head was bare.  Before us lay a broad, rich valley, extending in front to the mountains of Moudania.  The country was well cultivated, with large farming establishments here and there.

The sun was setting as we reached the summit ridge, where stood a little guard-house.  As we rode over the crest, Olympus disappeared, and the Sea of Marmora lay before us, spreading out from the Gulf of Moudania, which was deep and blue among the hills, to an open line against the sunset.  Beyond that misty line lay Europe, which I had not seen for nearly nine months, and the gulf below me was the bound of my tent and saddle life.  But one hour more, old horse!  Have patience with my Ethiopian thong, and the sharp corners of my Turkish stirrups:  but one hour more, and I promise never to molest you again!  Our path was downward, and I marvel that the poor brute did not sometimes tumble headlong with me.  He had been too long used to the pack, however,