At a fountain called the “mid-day konnak” we met some travellers coming from Brousa, who informed us that we could get there by the time of asser prayer.  Rounding the north-eastern base of Olympus, we now saw before us the long headland which forms his south-western extremity.  A storm was arising from the sea of Marmora, and heavy white clouds settled on the topmost summits of the mountain.  The wind began to blow fresh and cool, and when we had reached a height overlooking the deep valley, in the bottom of which lies the picturesque village of Ak-su, there were long showery lines coming up from the sea, and a filmy sheet of gray rain descended between us and Olympus, throwing his vast bulk far into the background.  At Ak-su, the first shower met us, pouring so fast and thick that we were obliged to put on our capotes, and halt under a walnut-tree for shelter.  But it soon passed over, laying the dust, for the time, and making the air sweet and cool.

We pushed forward over heights covered with young forests of oak, which are protected by the government, in order that they may furnish ship-timber.  On the right, we looked down into magnificent valleys, opening towards the west into the the plain of Brousa; but when, in the middle of the afternoon, we reached the last height, and saw the great plain itself, the climax was attained.  It was the crown of all that we had yet seen.  This superb plain or valley, thirty miles long, by five in breadth, spread away to the westward, between the mighty mass of Olympus on the one side, and a range of lofty mountains on the other, the sides of which presented a charming mixture of forest and cultivated land.  Olympus, covered with woods of beech and oak, towered to the clouds that concealed his snowy head; and far in advance, under the last cape he threw out towards the sea, the hundred minarets of Brousa stretched in a white and glittering line, like the masts of a navy, whose hulls were buried in the leafy sea.  No words can describe the beauty of the valley, the blending of the richest cultivation with the wildest natural luxuriance.  Here were gardens and orchards; there groves of superb chestnut-trees in blossom; here, fields of golden grain or green pasture-land; there, Arcadian thickets overgrown with clematis and wild rose; here, lofty poplars growing beside the streams; there, spiry cypresses looking down from the slopes:  and all blended in one whole, so rich, so grand, so gorgeous, that I scarcely breathed when it first burst upon me.

And now we descended to its level, and rode westward along the base of Olympus, grandest of Asian mountains.  This after-storm view, although his head was shrouded, was sublime.  His base is a vast sloping terrace, leagues in length, resembling the nights of steps by which the ancient temples were approached.  From this foundation rise four mighty pyramids, two thousand feet in height, and completely mantled with forests.  They are very nearly regular in their form and size,