with some roast kid, cucumbers, and cherries.  We lighted two lamps, I borrowed the oda-bashi’s narghileh, and Francois, learning that it was our national anniversary, procured us a flask of Greek wine, that we might do it honor.  The beverage, however, resembled a mixture of vinegar and sealing-wax, and we contented ourselves with drinking patriotic toasts, in two finjans of excellent coffee.  But in the midst of our enjoyment, happening to cast my eye on the walls, I saw a sight that turned all our honey into gall.  Scores on scores—­nay, hundreds on hundreds—­of enormous bed-bugs swarmed on the plaster, and were already descending to our beds and baggage.  To sleep there was impossible, but we succeeded in getting possession of one of the outside balconies, where we made our beds, after searching them thoroughly.

In the evening a merchant, who spoke a little Arabic, came up to me and asked:  “Is not your Excellency’s friend the hakim pasha” (chief physician).  I did not venture to assent, but replied:  “No; he is a sowakh” This was beyond his comprehension, and he went away with the impression that Mr. H. was much greater than a hakim pasha.  I slept soundly on my out-doors bed, but was awakened towards morning by two tremendous claps of thunder, echoing in the gorge, and the rattling of rain on the roof of the khan.

I spent two or three hours next morning in taking a survey of Kiutahya.  The town is much larger than I had supposed:  I should judge it to contain from fifty to sixty thousand inhabitants.  The situation is remarkable, and gives a picturesque effect to the place when seen from above, which makes one forget its internal filth.  It is built in the mouth of a gorge, and around the bases of the hills on either side.  The lofty mountains which rise behind it supply it with perpetual springs of pure water.  At every dozen steps you come upon a fountain, and every large street has a brook in the centre.  The houses are all two and many of them three stories high, with hanging balconies, which remind me much of Switzerland.  The bazaars are very extensive, covering all the base of the hill on which stands the ancient citadel.  The goods displayed were mostly European cotton fabrics, quincaillerie, boots and slippers, pipe-sticks and silks.  In the parts devoted to the produce of the country, I saw very fine cherries, cucumbers and lettuce, and bundles of magnificent clover, three to four feet high.

We climbed a steep path to the citadel, which covers the summit of an abrupt, isolated hill, connected by a shoulder with the great range.  The walls are nearly a mile in circuit, consisting almost wholly of immense circular buttresses, placed so near each other that they almost touch.  The connecting walls are broken down on the northern side, so that from below the buttresses have the appearance of enormous shattered columns.  They are built of rough stones, with regular layers of flat, burnt bricks.  On