We took a winding footpath, often a mere track, striking across the hills in a northern direction.  Everywhere we met the Turks of the plain, who are now encamped in the mountains, to tend their flocks through the summer months.  Herds of sheep and goats were scattered over the green pasture-slopes, and the idle herd-boys basked in the morning sun, playing lively airs on a reed flute, resembling the Arabic zumarra.  Here and there was a woodman, busy at a recently felled tree, and we met several of the creaking carts of the country, hauling logs.  All that we saw had a pleasant rural air, a smack of primitive and unsophisticated life.  From the higher ridges over which we passed, we could see, far to the east and west, other ranges of pine-covered mountains, and in the distance the cloudy lines of loftier chains.  The trunks of the pines were nearly all charred, and many of the smaller trees dead, from the fires which, later in the year, rage in these forests.

After four hours of varied and most inspiring travel, we reached a district covered for the most part with oak woods—­a more open though still mountainous region.  There was a summer village of Turks scattered over the nearest slope—­probably fifty houses in all, almost perfect counterparts of Western log-cabins.  They were built of pine logs, laid crosswise, and covered with rough boards.  These, as we were told, were the dwellings of the people who inhabit the village of Khosref Pasha Khan during the winter.  Great numbers of sheep and goats were browsing over the hills or lying around the doors of the houses.  The latter were beautiful creatures, with heavy, curved horns, and long, white, silky hair, that entirely hid their eyes.  We stopped at a house for water, which the man brought out in a little cask.  He at first proposed giving us yaourt, and his wife suggested kaimak (sweet curds), which we agreed to take, but it proved to be only boiled milk.

Leaving the village, we took a path leading westward, mounted a long hill, and again entered the pine forests.  Before long, we came to a well-built country-house, somewhat resembling a Swiss cottage.  It was two stories high, and there was an upper balcony, with cushioned divans, overlooking a thriving garden-patch and some fruit-trees.  Three or four men were weeding in the garden, and the owner came up and welcomed us.  A fountain of ice-cold water gushed into a stone trough at the door, making a tempting spot for our breakfast, but we were bent on reaching the tombs.  There were convenient out-houses for fowls, sheep, and cattle.  The herds were out, grazing along the edges of the forest, and we heard the shrill, joyous melodies of the flutes blown by the herd-boys.