the burning lustre of a summer sun, and canopied by the brilliant blue of a summer sky.  There were signs of the woodman’s axe, and the charred embers of forest camp-fires.  I thought of the lovely canadas in the pine forests behind Monterey, and could really have imagined myself there.  Towards evening we reached a solitary guard-house, on the edge of the forest.  The glen here opened a little, and a stone fountain of delicious water furnished all that we wanted for a camping-place.  The house was inhabited by three soldiers; sturdy, good-humored fellows, who immediately spread a mat in the shade for us and made us some excellent coffee.  A Turcoman encampment in the neighborhood supplied us with milk and eggs.

The guardsmen were good Mussulmans, and took us for the same.  One of them asked me to let him know when the sun was down, and I prolonged his fast until it was quite dark, when I gave him permission to eat.  They all had tolerable stallions for their service, and seemed to live pleasantly enough, in their wild way.  The fat, stumpy corporal, with his enormously broad pantaloons and automaton legs, went down to the fountain with his musket, and after taking a rest and sighting full five minutes, fired at a dove without hitting it.  He afterwards joined us in a social pipe, and we sat on a carpet at the door of the guard-house, watching the splendid moonrise through the pine boughs.  When the pipes had burned out I went to bed, and slept a long, sweet sleep until dawn.

We knew that the tombs of the Phrygian Kings could not be far off, and, on making inquiries of the corporal, found that he knew the place.  It was not four hours distant, by a by-road and as it would be impossible to reach it without a guide, he would give us one of his men, in consideration of a fee of twenty piastres.  The difficulty was evident, in a hilly, wooded country like this, traversed by a labyrinth of valleys and ravines, and so we accepted the soldier.  As we were about leaving, an old Turcoman, whose beard was dyed a bright red, came up, saying that he knew Mr. H. was a physician, and could cure him of his deafness.  The morning air was sweet with the breath of cedar and pine, and we rode on through the woods and over the open turfy glades, in high spirits.  We were in the heart of a mountainous country, clothed with evergreen forests, except some open upland tracts, which showed a thick green turf, dotted all over with park-like clumps, and single great trees.  The pines were noble trunks, often sixty to eighty feet high, and with boughs disposed in all possible picturesqueness of form.  The cedar frequently showed a solid white bole, three feet in diameter.