there is much inelegance in the sculptured details.  At the extremity is a half-dome of massive stone, over the place of the altar, and just in front of this formerly stood the pedestal whereon, according to tradition, St. Simeon Stylites commenced his pillar-life.  I found a recent excavation at the spot, but no pedestal, which has probably been carried off by the Greek monks.  Beside the Church stands a large building, with an upper and lower balcony, supported by square stone pillars, around three sides.  There is also a paved court-yard, a large cistern cut in the rock and numerous out-buildings, all going to confirm the supposition of its having been a monastery.  The main building is three stories high, with pointed gables, and bears a strong resemblance to an American summer hotel, with verandas.  Several ancient fig and walnut trees are growing among the ruins, and add to their picturesque appearance.

The next day we crossed a broad chain of hills to the Plain of Antioch, which we reached near its northern extremity.  In one of the valleys through which the road lay, we saw a number of hot sulphur springs, some of them of a considerable volume of water.  Not far from them was a beautiful fountain of fresh and cold water gushing from the foot of a high rock.  Soon after reaching the plain, we crossed the stream of Kara Su, which feeds the Lake of Antioch.  This part of the plain is low and swampy, and the streams are literally alive with fish.  While passing over the bridge I saw many hundreds, from one to two feet in length.  We wandered through the marshy meadows for two or three hours, and towards sunset reached a Turcoman encampment, where the ground was dry enough to pitch our tents.  The rude tribe received us hospitably, and sent us milk and cheese in abundance.  I visited the tent of the Shekh, who was very courteous, but as he knew no language but Turkish, our conversation was restricted to signs.  The tent was of camel’s-hair cloth, spacious, and open at the sides.  A rug was spread for me, and the Shekh’s wife brought me a pipe of tolerable tobacco.  The household were seated upon the ground, chatting pleasantly with one another, and apparently not in the least disturbed by my presence.  One of the Shekh’s sons, who was deaf and dumb, came and sat before me, and described by very expressive signs the character of the road to Scanderoon.  He gave me to understand that there were robbers in the mountains, with many grim gestures descriptive of stabbing and firing muskets.

The mosquitoes were so thick during the night that we were obliged to fill the tent with smoke in order to sleep.  When morning came, we fancied there would be a relief for us, but it only brought a worse pest, in the shape of swarms of black gnats, similar to those which so tormented me in Nubia.  I know of no infliction so terrible as these gnats, which you cannot drive away, and which assail ears, eyes, and nostrils in such quantities that you become mad