Chapter I.

Life in a Syrian Quarantine.

Voyage from Alexandria to Beyrout—­Landing at Quarantine—­The Guardiano—­Our Quarters—­Our Companions—­Famine and Feasting—­The Morning—­The Holy Man of Timbuctoo—­Sunday in Quarantine—­Islamism—­We are Registered—­Love through a Grating—­Trumpets—­The Mystery Explained—­Delights of Quarantine—­Oriental vs.  American Exaggeration—­A Discussion of Politics—­Our Release—­Beyrout—­Preparations for the Pilgrimage.

  “The mountains look on Quarantine,
  And Quarantine looks on the sea.”

  Quarantine Ms.

In Quarantine, Beyrout, Saturday, April 17, 1852.

Everybody has heard of Quarantine, but in our favored country there are many untravelled persons who do not precisely know what it is, and who no doubt wonder why it should be such a bugbear to travellers in the Orient.  I confess I am still somewhat in the same predicament myself, although I have already been twenty-four hours in Quarantine.  But, as a peculiarity of the place is, that one can do nothing, however good a will he has, I propose to set down my experiences each day, hoping that I and my readers may obtain some insight into the nature of Quarantine, before the term of my probation is over.

I left Alexandria on the afternoon of the 14th inst., in company with Mr. Carter Harrison, a fellow-countryman, who had joined me in Cairo, for the tour through Palestine.  We had a head wind, and rough sea, and I remained in a torpid state during most of the voyage.  There was rain the second night; but, when the clouds cleared away yesterday morning, we were gladdened by the sight of Lebanon, whose summits glittered with streaks of snow.  The lower slopes of the mountains were green with fields and forests, and Beyrout, when we ran up to it, seemed buried almost out of sight, in the foliage of its mulberry groves.  The town is built along the northern side of a peninsula, which projects about two miles from the main line of the coast, forming a road for vessels.  In half an hour after our arrival, several large boats came alongside, and we were told to get our baggage in order and embark for Quarantine.  The time necessary to purify a traveller arriving from Egypt from suspicion of the plague, is five days, but the days of arrival and departure are counted, so that the durance amounts to but three full days.  The captain of the Osiris mustered the passengers together, and informed them that each one would be obliged to pay six piastres for the transportation of himself and his baggage.  Two heavy lighters are now drawn up to the foot of the gangway, but as soon as the first box tumbles into them, the men tumble out.  They attach the craft by cables to two smaller boats, in which they sit, to tow the infected loads.  We are all sent down together, Jews, Turks, and Christians—­a confused pile of men, women, children, and goods.