Pepper!  As if I couldn’t recognize plain dirt when I saw it.  Our plates were the kind with hot water inside, and a cork, and as the venerable man removed them for the next course I, watching, saw him wipe them perfunctorily with the corner of his already none too clean garment, then gravely hand them back.  After that, I thought dry bread was the safest thing to breakfast on.

Now we are installed in Lakserai Circuit House These rest-houses are kept up by the Government for officials on inspection duty.  Dak-bungalows are rather different.  Any traveller may stay in them by paying so much.  This house consists of one very large room, dining, drawing, smoking room in one, and two bedrooms.  It is rather damp and dreary, but that doesn’t matter, for we leave again to-morrow morning.  We have been to call this afternoon on the wife of the Collector, Mrs. Edston, a pretty woman with nice manners and a sweet voice.  We had tea with her and saw her small son.  Her bungalow interested me.  It was only the second Mofussil bungalow I had seen.  The Takai drawing-room was delightful, a big, rather empty room, with one or two good reproductions of famous pictures on the walls, heaps of books, and an almost entire absence of ornaments—­rather an ascetic room.  It suited the simple, strenuous life there.  Mrs. Edston’s is quite different—­bright and pretty, full of flowers and growing plants; tables laden with silver, and photographs of pretty women and children; comfortable chairs, with opulent cushions, soft rugs and hangings—­altogether a very cosy room.

Mrs. Edston has kindly asked us to dine with her to-night.

Later.

We have just come back, and as I am not very sleepy I shall write a bit.  It was pouring rain at eight o’clock, so a trap was sent for us, and a note asking us not to whip the horses too hard.  I thought they must be very restive animals, but it turned out to be a joke.  There were no horses in the trap, only coolies!

We had a very pleasant dinner.  Mr. Edston is out in camp, but two young assistant officers were there.  They live in tents in the compound, as the bungalow is small, and have their meals with the Edstons.  Sitting to-night before a blazing fire, in the pretty drawing-room, listening to Mrs. Edston singing, I reflected that they were exceedingly fortunate young men to have such a home-like habitation and such a charming hostess.  To do them justice, I think they quite realize their good fortune.

We depart to-morrow morning for some quite unpronounceable place about twenty miles from here, to stay at another rest-house till Monday.

Madhabad, Sunday.

We have reached the unpronounceable place after much prayer and fasting.  What a day we had yesterday!  We left the Lakserai Circuit House at 10 a.m., preceded by Autolycus and a crowd of coolies bearing luggage.  Each coolie carries one thing, and as they are all paid the same without regard to the weight carried, of course there is great competition for the light packages.  It is odd to see one man stagger under a trunk while another trots gaily off with a cushion or a kodak.  We are allowed to take hand-luggage into the carriage, and we take such a broad view of the word that it means with us dressing-bags, suit-cases, tennis-rackets, gun-cases, polo-sticks, golf-clubs, and as much more as the compartment will hold.