to a Jew, who closed it on Saturdays, the law of the
State compelling all to close their shops one day in
the week. In every street, we were struck with
the glorious liberty enjoyed by the pigs. On
all hands, the swinish multitude were seen luxuriating
in unrestricted freedom. Mr. Boynton, who received
us kindly, did not know of any place where we could
be accommodated with private board and lodging, but
promised to make inquiry that evening. He was
a man of about forty years of age, wearing on the
Sabbath, and even in the pulpit (as most American
ministers do), a black neckerchief, and shirt-collar
turned down over it. That night we had to go to
an hotel, and were recommended to the Denison House,
which we found pretty cheap and comfortable.
But the American hotels are not, in point of comfort,
to be compared for a moment to those of Old England.
My wife was too tired to go out in the evening; and
unwilling for my own part to close the Sabbath without
going to some place of public worship, I thought I
would try to find the sanctuary of “my brethren—my
kinsmen according to the flesh”—the
Welsh. Following the directions I had received,
I arrived at the top of a certain street, when I heard
the sound of sacred song; but I could not tell whether
it was Welsh or not, nor exactly whence it came.
As I stood listening, an overgrown boy came by, of
whom I inquired, “Where does that singing come
from?”—“I guess it comes
from a church down below there.” “Is
it a Welsh Church?”—“I can’t
tell, but I guess it is.” “Well,
then,” I rejoined, “I guess I will
go and see.” I turned, and the youth “guessed”
he would follow me. I got to the door. The
singing had not ceased. It was Welsh—the
language in which I had first heard “Am Geidwad
i’r Colledig!"[1] How interesting in the
“Far West” to hear sounds so sweet and
so familiar to my childhood! None but those who
have experienced can tell the charm of such an incident.
The minister was in the pulpit. His dress and
hair were very plain, and his complexion was extremely
dark. He was evidently a Welshman: there
was no mistake about it: his gravity, plainness,
attitude—all told the fact. I ventured
forward, and walked along to the stove, which to me
was an object of agreeable attraction. Around
the stove were two or three chairs. A big aristocratic-looking
Welshman, a sort of a “Blaenor,” who occupied
one of these chairs, invited me to take another that
was vacant. The eyes of all in the synagogue
were upon me. My “guessing” informant
had followed me even there, though he evidently understood
not a word of Welsh. The building was about 40
feet by 35, without galleries, and was about two-thirds
full. The pulpit was fitted up in the platform
style—the “genuine” American
mode. The text was, “How shall we escape,
if we neglect so great a salvation?” The sermon
was good and faithful. The audience—the
men on one side of the chapel, and the women on the
other—did not excite much interest.