The evening closed upon us, sailing pleasantly up the Mississippi.  Having a beautiful moonlight night, we kept on our way.  About seven o’clock we overtook a small fishing-boat laden with oysters.  In consideration of our allowing them—­not the oysters, but the boatmen—­to fasten a rope to our vessel, to help them on, they gave us a generous and refreshing supply.  But such oysters!  In neither size nor shape did they resemble those of the Old World.  As to size, they were gigantic,—­as to shape, not unlike the human foot.  They abound not far from the mouth of the river, and many men obtain a livelihood by carrying them up to the New Orleans market.  The mode of cooking adopted in this instance was that of putting them on the fire till the shells opened.  To our taste, they were not in flavour to be compared to the London oysters; but we did not venture to tell our American captain so.  We had yet, however, to taste the deliciously-cooked oysters of the northern cities.

About 10 p.m., the breeze having in a great measure died away, our captain thought it imprudent to attempt to “go a-head” further that night, and the anchor was cast.  We were now fifty miles above the entrance of the river.

Early next day the anchor was raised, the sails were unfurled, and we again moved along.  About 8 a.m., through the narrowness of the river, the rapidity of the stream, and other causes, our “smart” captain, who had chuckled vastly on passing all other ships in the river,—­and especially British ships,—­ran his own vessel right ashore!  There we were in a complete “fix,” till one of the grunting monsters (coming up with two vessels—­one on each arm, as usual,—­and letting them go for a few minutes,) came to our rescue.  Forbidding as was his aspect, we were very glad to feel a little of his giant power.  Of this one I had, of course, a better view than I had had of any other of the species.  It had, like the rest, two chimneys in front, like perpendicular tusks, with a ladder between them.  The ladder was for the purpose of ascent,—­the ascent for the purpose of elevation,—­and the elevation for the purpose of “look out.”  The top of the ladder, in short, rendered the same service as the top of a ship’s mast at sea.  This “tug” had also, a little further aft, a funnel-like sort of chimney, for the emission of steam.  The whole structure was—­like a forge below, and a palace above.  In the lower story were the boiler, engine, fuel, &c., all exposed to view; while, the upper contained splendid apartments for the captain, the engineer, and other officers.  The engineer of that vessel, I understood, had a salary of 250 dollars (50 guineas) per month!

Released from our stranded position, we found ourselves in a few minutes lashed to the monster’s side, and completely in his power.  Here we were, in the same dread position in which the day before we felt horrified to see others!  From some of the officers, our captain obtained another newspaper.  It was the New Orleans Daily Picayune for January 26.  Getting hold of it, I found whole columns of slave-sale advertisements.  A few specimens will illustrate better than any description the state of things in this “land of liberty!”