On the 22nd the regiment, or what was left of it, comprising about 180 effective rank and file, moved from Ahmed Ali Khan’s house to the Ajmir Gate at the extreme south-western side of the city, a distance of a mile and a half from our former residence.  Here we put up in a large serai, with open courtyards in the centre, shaded by high trees, the small rooms on each side of the building being turned into quarters for the men, the officers taking up their abode in a mosque at the far end.  The change was far from agreeable; flies and mosquitoes swarmed around us, the ditch outside the walls was filled with pools of stagnant water, and a horrible stench impregnated the air, increasing the sickness among the already enfeebled soldiers, and still further reducing our scanty number.

September 23.—­The next day I started with D——­, of my regiment, to view the Jama Masjid, or Great Mosque.  Nothing can exceed the rich, though chaste, beauty of this glorious structure.  The building stands in a large walled enclosure, high broad steps leading up to the mosque, with its three domes of pure white marble and floor of the same material, all inlaid with figures.  We ascended one of the minarets, about 120 feet high, obtaining a grand view of the imperial city and the surrounding country.  To the south extended the ruins of Ferozebad, or ancient Delhi; to the east lay the River Jumna; and to the west and north stretched a forest of trees and gardens, among which were seen the suburbs of the city, the now historic ridge in the far distance hiding the whole camp from our view.  From our elevated position a just estimate could be formed of the great size of Delhi:  the city lay spread out below with its vast area of streets, its palaces, mosques, and temples, all silent and deserted, in striking contrast to the din and turmoil of a few days back.

Major Coke’s corps of Punjab Rifles were quartered in the Masjid—­a luxurious place of residence—­but there were no worshippers to be found in the sacred building, and only armed men of an infidel creed were to be seen.  A report spread at this time that it had been decided to blow up the mosque.  I cannot vouch for the truth of this statement, and can only attribute the rumour to a belief that a large ransom would be paid by the Mohammedan population of India for the preservation of their temple had the authorities really intended to carry out the project.  Its destruction would have been an act of vandalism quite at variance with the character of the British nation, and one which would have brought down on us the wrath and contempt of the whole civilized world.