Rounding the point into Shoalwater Bay they had to haul sharp up to the west to get within the Northumberland Islands, and the water was found to be so shallow that they anchored and sounded from the boats, gradually working nearer in, as Cook was anxious to clean the ship’s bottom, which was very foul; and he desired to take advantage of the full moon in these dangerous waters.  They landed to take some observations and look for water.  The observations were unsatisfactory, for the compass was unreliable, a fault attributed to the ironstone in the neighbourhood, of which signs were very evident, and water was not to be found.  The country is reported on as follows:  “No signs of fertility is to be seen upon the Land; the soil of the uplands is mostly a hard, reddish clay.”

Passing Cape Hillsborough, they entered Whitsunday Passage, described by Cook as “one continued safe harbour, besides a number of small bays and coves on each side, where ships might lay as it were in a Basin.”  The land on both sides was green and pleasant-looking, but on account of the moonlight Cook could not waste any time in landing.

Entering Cleveland Bay, the compass was again very much disturbed; the cause was found to be Magnetical, now Magnetic, Island, lying just off the present Port of Townsville.  Blacks were seen, near Rockingham Bay, through the glasses; they were said to be very dark and destitute of clothing, but no communication with them was possible.

On the rocks.

On 10th June, after leaving a small bay north of Cape Grafton, where they had searched in vain for a watering place, the watch had just turned in, the lead had been cast and given seventeen fathoms, when the unfortunate ship brought all hands on deck, with a crash on a sunken rock.  Soundings taken all round showed her to be on the very edge of a coral reef.  Making but little water, an attempt was made to warp her off, but unsuccessfully.  Steps were then taken to lighten her; decayed stores, oil jars, staves, casks, ballast, and her six quarter-deck guns were thrown overboard, some forty to fifty tons, but with no effect.  The tide now rising, the leaks increased rapidly, two pumps being kept constantly at work.  Thinking things could only go from bad to worse, Cook determined to heave her off at all hazards, and every one who could be spared from the pumps was sent to the capstan or windlass, and at length, after a stay of twenty-three hours on the rocks, she was hove into deep water.  Now, however, it was a case of all hands to the pumps, and for a time it seemed as if they were slowly gaining on the in-rushing water, but suddenly there was an increase reported in the well, casting a shadow of gloom over all, but not for an instant staying the steady beat of the pumps.  Shortly it was discovered that a fresh hand had been sent to the well and had sounded from a different mark than his predecessor, accounting for the sixteen to eighteen inches difference in the depth of water reported.  This discovery acted like a charm:  each one redoubled his exertions, and by morning they had gained considerably on the leak, so sail was made, and they slowly crawled in towards the land.